2018 Burgundy En Primeur: Domaine J.A. Ferret, Pouilly-Fuissé

 

 

Domaine J.A Ferret is a historic domaine in the heart of Pouilly-Fuissé.  The domaine was officially established in 1840, but the Ferret family have actually been making wine here since the 1760s.  We visited in September and were so impressed, we offered you magnums of the 2017 vintage practically before we had left the domaine.  

Pouilly-Fuissé has been overlooked for years.  The familiar name is a stalwart of many a restaurant list seeking to add some Burgundian glamour at an affordable price...a source of 'reliable', rather than exciting white burgundy.  This is changing and Ferret is one of the leaders in exploring the diverse terroirs of this AOC.  Owned since 2008 by Jadot but run as a seperate domaine, investment in a new winery and a brilliant winemaker leave no doubt that the intention here is to raise the game, both with their own wines and in the appellation as a whole.

The five villages of Pouilly, Fuissé, Vergisson, Solutré and Chaintré between them have the most diverse range of terroirs of any Burgundy appellation, and yet the majority of wines are blended.  After a long battle with the authorities, a premier cru classification will be introduced from 2020 vintage, with more wines from individual vineyard sites available. Ferret, however, have been making single vineyard wines practically since the domaine was founded in the 1840s

Ferret's own (unofficial) classifications of 'Tetes de Cru' and 'Hors Cru Classe' of these single vineyard wines correspond, in their eyes, to premier and grand cru. The premier cru status at least will now be recognised.  Pouilly-Fuissés first grand cru may take a little longer...but if and when it does come, it may well be one of Ferret's. 

 

 

The 2018 domaine wine, resting in tank.

 

Charismatic winemaker Audrey Braccini told us about the 'war of nerves' she fought in the 2018 vintage, delaying the start of picking until long after many of her neighbours, to achieve flavour ripeness.  Despite the heat of the vintage, the 2018s we tasted are still fresh and well-balanced, although as Audrey says, you can taste the effect of all the sunshine.  From the fresh, mineral style of "Les Perrieres" and "Tournant de Pouilly" (on limestone soils) to the richness of "Le Clos", the wines exhibit their terroirs beautifully.  Pictured in front of the church, above, Le Clos is a monopole for Ferret, just 0.69 hectares on limestone and shale, making some of the richest wines of the domaine.

 

Winemaker Audrey Braccini, in charge since 2008, continuing a long tradition of women in charge at the domaine.

 

We have included tasting notes from Allen Meadows of the 'Burghound' website below, along with his suggested drinking dates.  We think most of the wines can be drunk much earlier, but all have good ageing potential. 

Ferret can also offer their wines in half bottles, magnums and jeroboams, for a small surcharge, so please let us know if this is of interest.

Offered en primeur, stock landing in the UK early summer 2020.

 

Ferret's tiny 0.69ha 'Le Clos' Monopole vineyard, in the heart of the village of Fuissé next to the village church.

View of offer of the 2018 wines from Domaine J.A Ferret below.

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Prices are ex-VAT per case of 12 bottles, unless otherwise advised.  DP = duty-paid ex-London.  IB = under bond ex-London.

White 2018 Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé 75cl £120 per case of 6 IB
"Aromas of ripe white orchard fruit and citrus zest introduce rich and nicely vo... Read more
"Aromas of ripe white orchard fruit and citrus zest introduce rich and nicely voluminous middle weight flavors that possess a succulent and mouth coating palate impression, all wrapped in a sneaky long if mildly warm finish. This should drink well relatively early yet also repay a few years of keeping. 2022+. 89-91 points." Allen Meadows, Burghound Oct 2019 Close
White 2018 Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Clos de Prouges" Tete de Cru 75cl £165 per case of 6 IB
"Subtle wood influence frames pungent citrus and petrol-suffused aromas. The den... Read more
"Subtle wood influence frames pungent citrus and petrol-suffused aromas. The dense, powerful and palate coating broad-shouldered flavors possess impressive volume on the more complex and persistent if slightly warm finish. 2024+. 90-92 points." Allen Meadows, Burghound Oct 20 Close
White 2018 Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Le Clos" Tete de Cru 75cl £215 per case of 6 IB
"A deft application of wood sets off softly spicy and ripe aromas of apple, acac... Read more
"A deft application of wood sets off softly spicy and ripe aromas of apple, acacia blossom and citrus hints. There is again both good volume and richness to the tender, caressing and delicious medium-bodied flavors that terminate in a texture and more persistent if slightly less complex finale. 2023+. 89-92 points." Allen Meadows, Burghound Oct 2019 Close
White 2018 Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Les Ménétrières" Hors Classe 75cl £215 per case of 6 IB
"A super-fresh combination is comprised by notes of a variety of citrus nuances ... Read more
"A super-fresh combination is comprised by notes of a variety of citrus nuances that add interest to the pear, apple and gentle floral nuances. There is again excellent punch and mid-palate concentration to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a caressing yet powerful mouth feel before terminating in a saline, long and robust finale. This fine effort too should age well. 2024+. 91-93 points." Allen Meadows, Burghound Oct 2019 Close
White 2018 Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Les Perrieres" Tete de Cru 75cl £165 per case of 6 IB
"An attractively fresh nose combines notes of citrus, green apple and quinine th... Read more
"An attractively fresh nose combines notes of citrus, green apple and quinine that is trimmed in very subtle wood influence. The racy, intense and solidly dense middle weight flavors exude a refreshing salinity on the balanced, clean and dry finish that offers excellent depth and persistence. This should drink very well on the younger side but age effortlessly over the mid-term. 2024+. 90-93 points." Allen Meadows, Burghound Oct 2019 Close
White 2018 Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Tournant de Pouilly" Hors Classe 75cl £215 per case of 6 IB
"This is aromatically similar to the Les Perrières though the wood treatment is ... Read more
"This is aromatically similar to the Les Perrières though the wood treatment is just a bit more prominent. The cool and attractively restrained medium weight flavors possess very good delineation as well as excellent mid-palate density, all wrapped in a wonderfully textured, complex and lingering finish. This well-balanced effort should also amply reward mid-term cellaring. 2024+. 91-93 points". Allen Meadows, Burghound Oct 2019 Close

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