2018 Domaine Voillot, Volnay
This is the first year we have offered the wines of Domaine Joseph Voillot. This small 9 hectare domaine is in the heart of Volnay, with vineyards mostly in that village and in neighbouring Pommard. The estate has been run by Jean-Pierre Charlot since the late '90s, after Joseph Voillot (Jean-Pierre's father-in-law) passed away.
Jean-Pierre is a small god in the Côte de Beaune, a winemaker's winemaker. He taught oenology in Beaune to many of the current generation. Two years ago, we had dinner with Jean-Pierre at Le Table du Square, a Beaune brasserie frequented by domaine owners. Every few moments, the meal was interrupted another famous vigneronne, coming over to pay hommage to their old teacher.
Very stout, very gallic and a great rugby-lover, he could not be more different from his wines, which are some of the purest, most elegant and most authentic burgundies we have ever tasted. His approach is no-nonsense and low-tech, with only a small amount of new oak used and complete focus on terroir. His father-in-law's old winemaking tools, (kept on display in the winery for many years in his honour) say a lot about the domaine...just a whisk, a mallet and a few other oddments.
Jean-Pierre's nephew Etienne Chaix joined as apprentice and now makes the wines. He promises us his uncle does not interfere...too much. Joseph's tools have been moved but, so far, we can see no other changes!
In 2018, the Volnays have unusual concentration. The Pommards are already being singled out for praise, with Tim Atkin MW scoring the premier cru Rugiens 95 points and the Épenots 94 points. Both are included in his selection of 'Top 2018 Côte de Beaune Wines' in this month's Decanter.
View the wines offered below.
Prices are ex-VAT per case of 12 bottles, unless otherwise advised. DP = duty-paid ex-London. IB = under bond ex-London.
|Red||2018||Joseph Voillot - Pommard Les Epenots 1er cru||75cl||£350 per case of 6||IB|
Very fresh with lovely, lively acidity and an exceptional core of pure fruit. A... Read more
Very fresh with lovely, lively acidity and an exceptional core of pure fruit. Aromas somewhat muted at this tasting as kieselguhr filtered in the winery yesterday. RKL "Bottled. Light cherry red with a healthy glow. Rich, sweet, marrons glacés nose. Here the opulence of the fruit almost masks the tannic structure (cf the village Pommard) but it should reward ageing. Proper representative of its climat. Drink 2027 – 2040. 17+ points" jancisrobinson.com "The 2018 Pommard les Epenots 1er Cru comes from 0.17 hectare of vines planted in 1961. Raspberry, wild strawberry and briar storm from the glass with great intensity, signifying a Pommard determined to make an impression. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and fine acidity, more refined and understated than the nose but showing impressive harmony and tension on the finish. This is a beautifully crafted Pommard. 91-93 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com Close
|Red||2018||Joseph Voillot - Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru||75cl||£360 per case of 6||IB|
Really dark and structured, intense but still fine...sandpaper tannins but 360 g... Read more
Really dark and structured, intense but still fine...sandpaper tannins but 360 grit i.e. very fine! Lots of breadth in the mid-palate. Great length. RKL "The 2018 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru comes from 0.25 hectares of vine planted in 1959. It probably boasts the most harmonious and nuanced bouquet from the domaine, featuring lovely brambly red berry fruit, sous-bois and hints of morels. The palate is very cohesive with supple tannins, pitch-perfect acidity, a surfeit of refinement and a satin-textured finish that is one of the best I have encountered from the domaine. You will not find a Rugiens better than this in 2018. 93-95 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com Close
|Red||2018||Joseph Voillot - Volnay||75cl||£295 per case of 12||IB|
Low in aroma today (the wines were filtered with kieselguhr yesterday) but the t... Read more
Low in aroma today (the wines were filtered with kieselguhr yesterday) but the texture is silky and the the fruit is very pure and intense on the palate...one of the most concentrated Volnay Villages I have tasted at Voillot. RKL "The 2018 Volnay Village comes from 1.94 hectares of vine spread over four large parcels plus some small plots. This has an attractive bouquet of mulberry and raspberry aromas, quite refined in style and delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm, almost Pommard-like tannins. This is a masculine Volnay, broody at the moment, but it will open up nicely with time in bottle, so don’t be afraid to stick it in the cellar for four or five years. 87-89 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com Close
|Red||2018||Joseph Voillot - Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru||75cl||£260 per case of 6||IB|
From a limestone terroir which imparts a chalky character to the tannins, fresh ... Read more
From a limestone terroir which imparts a chalky character to the tannins, fresh acidity and an underlying minerality. The tannins are superfine, balanced by ripe fruit just peeping out from behind at the moment. 4-5 years. RKL " Close