2019 Domaine Bachey-Legros En Primeur
The red and white burgundies from Domaine Bachey-Legros in Santenay were a huge hit in our 2018 en primeur offers, so much so that we re-offered some remaining stocks of the 2017s in the summer. This week we had our first opportunity to taste cask samples of the 2019s, confirming our feeling that brothers Samuel and Lénaïc make some of the best value burgundies we know.
A winning combination of very old vines and a winemaking approach which emphasises richness, produces whites in a luscious style and reds which rival the Cotes de Nuits for concentration and tannic structure. Earlier this year, Tim Atkin MW described their flagship premier cru site thus:
"Clos Rousseau would be much more famous if it were located in Vosne-Romanée or Gevrey-Chambertin rather than Santenay, such is the quality of the wines from this Premier Cru." Tim Atkin MW, Decanter Jan 2020
The brothers list the vineyard planting dates next to many of their wines, from 1950 for 'Les Charmes' back to 1914 for 1er Cru Clos Rousseau 'Les Fourneaux'. Caring for these old vines is clearly a labour of love and they describes themselves as working like 'curators in a botanical museum'. Deep-rooting older vines are very resilient to annual vintage variations, giving consistently brilliant wines each year.
The Santenay Blanc 'Les Gravieres' 1er Cru was a highlight of our tasting, with mineral aromas and exotic and tropical fruits leaping out of the glass immediately we approached it. Judging by this and by Michelot's Gravieres Blanc (which we will offer later this month) this is a gem of a terroir and one worth knowing about.
Amongst ther reds we tasted, the 2019 Santenay 'Clos Rousseau' Les Fourneaux Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru once again asserted itself the equal of wines from more famous, northerly villages, with a particular resemblance to Vosne-Romanée. Brilliant value all of them, we recommend you pounce on these wines whilst they are available.
Offered en primeur, landing late autumn 2021.
Prices are ex-VAT per case of 12 bottles, unless otherwise advised. DP = duty-paid ex-London. IB = under bond ex-London.
|White||2019||Bachey-Legros - Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot Vieilles Vignes 1er cru||75cl||£395 per case of 12||IB|
Vines planted 1950. Tremendous ripeness and minerality on the nose, with white ... Read more
Vines planted 1950. Tremendous ripeness and minerality on the nose, with white peach and flint aromas, expanding on the palate to show a glycerin texture and oak, completely harmonious and balanced by the fruit character. Despite the ripeness on the palate, the fruit remains on the peach-pear spectrum (rather than tropical). Exceptional value, showing real1er Cru character at this price level. RKL Close
|White||2019||Bachey-Legros - Santenay Blanc Clos Les Gravières 1er cru||75cl||£250 per case of 12||IB|
From younger vines in the lower, northern part of Santenay and is mostly a young... Read more
From younger vines in the lower, northern part of Santenay and is mostly a young vine cuvée. The style in similar to Chassagne-Montrachet with lots of richness and texture, presumably influenced by the use of lees stirring and ageing in 30% new wood. The 2019 is stunning on the nose with an immediate impression of minerality and tropical character. This richness is balanced by lees ageing, retaining an overall savoury character, with a backdrop of new oak. Excellent persistence, remarkably consistent with Michelot's Gravieres 1er Cru but the winemaking style is subtly different, emphasising richness. RKL Close
|White||2019||Bachey-Legros - Santenay Blanc 'Sous La Roche'||75cl||£195 per case of 12||IB|
The 'Sous La Roche' lieu-dit is a small vineyard, less than half a hectare, quit... Read more
The 'Sous La Roche' lieu-dit is a small vineyard, less than half a hectare, quite high up on the slopes above the village of Santenay. The 2019 shows some new oak influence, with toast aromas and a buttery character, balanced by fresh pear and apple aromas. Ripe guava, honeydew melon and other tropical fruits on the palate with citrus lemon pith keeping it fresh, seductive but still all in good balance. RKL Close
|Red||2019||Bachey-Legros - Santenay Rouge 'Clos des Hâtes' Vieilles Vignes||75cl||£195 per case of 12||IB|
From vines planted in 1935. Cask sample not tasted. Generally Clos des Hâtes i... Read more
From vines planted in 1935. Cask sample not tasted. Generally Clos des Hâtes is more structured and rustic in character when compared with Les Charmes. RKL Close
|Red||2019||Bachey-Legros - Santenay Rouge 'Les Charmes' Vieilles Vignes||75cl||£185 per case of 12||IB|
From a parcel of vines planted in 1950. The lieu-dit 'Les Charmes’ is a 0.8 hec... Read more
From a parcel of vines planted in 1950. The lieu-dit 'Les Charmes’ is a 0.8 hectare plot of clay on limestone soil. Somewhat closed on the nose at present but there's no doubting the elegance of the tannins, with a fine silky texture already beginning to show itself. Brilliant ripeness but the fruits are still very much red in character and true to the Cotes de Beaune origins. RKL Close