2019 Domaine Hudelot-Baillet, Chambolle-Musigny
This is our third year of offering Domaine Hudelot-Baillet's wines en primeur, having begun with the 2017 vintage. Along the way, we have had the opportunity to watch the earlier vintages develop, confirming our view that winemaker Dominique Le Guen is a rising star of Chambolle-Musigny. Dominique's muscular, concentrated style of winemaking often requires a few years in bottle to allow the tannins to develop, but the 2019s are silky, elegant and relatively forward.
After a career in the French airforce, Dominique took over the winemaking at Domaine Hudelot-Baillet from his father-in-law in 2004 and the wines have gained steadily in stature. He comes across as earnest and practical, determined and focused on detail. His winemaking approach includes destemming and cool maceration for the red wines, with punching down, remontage and delestage, to extract the supple tannins from the skins rather than the pips. The wines are aged in between a third and a half new oak.
The Bourgogne Pinot Noir and Hautes Côtes de Nuits stand out as structured, full-bodied red burgundies, but at just a third to a half of the price of the village and premier cru wines. With one to two years of cellaring after landing, these are both superb value 'everyday' red burgundies.
The step up to the Chambolle wines comes not so much in power but in their extremely fine tannins. "Les Charmes" is always a favourite, the most linear and overtly mineral of the three. "Les Cras" has a brooding power which only begins to show itself after six or seven years. The "Borniques" vineyard neighbours the Musigny grand cru and is a little known name which we suspect may be made more famous by Dominique...a potential investment wine.
Quantities are painfully limited, so do please let us know as soon as possible if you would like to add any of these to your cellar.
Offered En Primeur, wines due to land in the UK in autumn 2021.
Prices are ex-VAT per case of 12 bottles, unless otherwise advised. DP = duty-paid ex-London. IB = under bond ex-London.
|Red||2019||Hudelot Baillet - Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits||75cl||£195 per case of 12||IB|
The first time we tasted his Hautes Côte de Nuits, Dominique commented that grow... Read more
The first time we tasted his Hautes Côte de Nuits, Dominique commented that growers are increasingly looking at plots at the tops of their slopes. Labelled as 'Hautes Côtes', they often echo the style of the nearby village. The 2019 from cask is a little dominated by oak aromas at present (to be expected) but there is underlying fruit which will assert itself with a couple of years in bottle. The tannins are very fine, finer than in the last two vintages. Silky and concentrated rather than rustic power this year. RKL Close
|Red||2019||Hudelot Baillet - Bourgogne Pinot Noir||75cl||£165 per case of 12||IB|
From a small plot of vines in Chambolle. Dark brambly fruits on the nose, cherr... Read more
From a small plot of vines in Chambolle. Dark brambly fruits on the nose, cherry jam, well-integrated oak and some heady floral (rose petal) aromas too. Notable intensity and depth for a generic bourgogne. On the palate there is a great density and texture, with already silky tannins. Only the moderate length would mark this out as a bourgogne rather than a higher classification if tasted blind; otherwise this is a lot of wine for the money. RKL Close
|Red||2019||Hudelot Baillet - Chambolle Musigny Les Borniques 1er cru||75cl||£440 per case of 6||IB|
From a plot of old vines in 'Les Borniques', a tiny premier cru which Dominique ... Read more
From a plot of old vines in 'Les Borniques', a tiny premier cru which Dominique used to blend into his other wines, as there was barely enough to bottle on its own. Les Borniques is in a brilliant location, bordering the Musigny grand cru. Cask sample not tasted. RKL Close
|Red||2019||Hudelot Baillet - Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes 1er cru||75cl||£320 per case of 6||IB|
30 to 60 year old vines on limestone soils. This is super-refined and simply f... Read more
30 to 60 year old vines on limestone soils. This is super-refined and simply floats on the palate, unexpected after the steady progression in intensity of the first three wines. Fresh, great delicacy and complexity, a very elegant 1er Cru Chambolle in the making. RKL Close
|Red||2019||Hudelot Baillet - Chambolle Musigny Les Cras 1er cru||75cl||£340 per case of 6||IB|
From vines growing in a plot in Dominique's back garden, beneath which his newly... Read more
From vines growing in a plot in Dominique's back garden, beneath which his newly excavated cellar lies. Dominique suggests 6-8 years bottle age for Les Cras. Cask sample not tasted. RKL Close
|Red||2019||Hudelot Baillet - Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes||75cl||£220 per case of 6||IB|
From 60-80 year-old vines. Dark blackcurrant, kirsch and some raspberry aromas,... Read more
From 60-80 year-old vines. Dark blackcurrant, kirsch and some raspberry aromas, but rather closed on the nose at present. The tannins are extremely fine, a step change from the previous two wines. Also some stony minerality and a long progression on the palate to mark the change up. On a second tasting after some air, the velvety tannins are even more the focal point. RKL Close