2019 Domaine Jean Pascal, Puligny-Montrachet
All year we have been enjoying the 2018 vintage white burgundies from Domaine Jean Pascal in Puligny-Montrachet; first the Bourgogne Blanc before moving on to the Auxey-Duresses and Puligny 'Les Enseignères'.
These wines have become a benchmark for us of what white burgundy should offer, with their amazing fruit purity and a chiselled ("cisele"), focused character, even in the recent run of warmer vintages.
The domaine is just 500 metres from Puligny's village square, home to Domaine Leflaive and Hôtel Le Montrachet, but compared with these starry names it could not be more down to earth, a 'paysanne' domaine (in relative terms). Nevertheless, Pascal's Bourgogne Chardonnay and Puligny's are a staple of Le Montrachet's list...quite a recommendation.
The domaine was started by Joseph Pascal in the early 1900s when he arrived in the village and began working in the vineyards for Domaine Leflaive. Gradually, he acquired his own vines. In the 1950s, with low demand for fine white burgundy, the family also started a vine nursery ("pépinière") which now produces half a million vine rootstocks each year.
Perhaps being so firmly rooted in viticulture gives the Pascals their skill at making wines with such brilliant fruit character. Many domaines produce wines with more layered complexity (at many times the price) but few surpass them when it comes to purity.
The domaine was hit hard by spring frosts, especially in Auxey-Duresses, resulting in a 60-80% reduction in the harvest. Quality has benefited, with intense, concentrated fruit producing rich wines which nevertheless have wonderful floral aromatic elegance.
Each year we sell out of the Bourgogne Chardonnay within a few months of it landing, so we suggest securing yours now, especially in this small vintage; ditto the Auxey-Duresses, the best 'proper' village white burgundy we know at such an affordable price.
The Puligny-Montrachet 'Les Enseignères' lieu dit has just the right level of additional tautness and elegance to make it worth purchasing over the village wine. As for the Folatières 1er Cru, perhaps the approachable character of 2019 has made it more apparent than ever what a stunning wine this is. The level of finesse and delicacy took us by surprise, brilliant value at £260 IB for six bottles and one of our top picks of all the white burgundies we have tasted so far in 2019.
These are superb, honest wines which take you right into the heart of one of the Côte d'Or's most prized wine villages, without any of the associated elevated prices. We recommend adding them to your cellar while they are available.
Offered en primeur, landing Autumn 2021.
Prices are ex-VAT per case of 12 bottles, unless otherwise advised. DP = duty-paid ex-London. IB = under bond ex-London.
|White||2019||Jean Pascal at Fils - Auxey Duresses Blanc||75cl||£220 per case of 12||IB|
Increased concentration over the generic wine, but more refined and precise at t... Read more
Increased concentration over the generic wine, but more refined and precise at the same time too. Nose shows white and exotic fruits, with really focused acidity. White peach and pears on the palate and a background of carefully judged oak. RKL Close
|White||2019||Jean Pascal at Fils - Bourgogne Chardonnay||75cl||£140 per case of 12||IB|
Expressive and on the nose with white fruits (especially pear). Fresh and rounde... Read more
Expressive and on the nose with white fruits (especially pear). Fresh and rounded on the palate mouth, beautifully balanced between richness and a saline and lemon pith character which gives freshness, another superb Bourgogne Chardonnay from Pascal. RKL Close
|White||2019||Jean Pascal at Fils - Puligny Montrachet Les Enseignères||75cl||£180 per case of 6||IB|
Some flinty or matchstick aromas on the nose, either from terroir or perhaps red... Read more
Some flinty or matchstick aromas on the nose, either from terroir or perhaps reductive winemaking, wonerfully refined and lots of minerality as well as peach. Plenty of potential for both the minerality and fruit character to develop over the next three years. RKL Close
|White||2019||Jean Pascal at Fils - Puligny Montrachet Les Folatières 1er cru||75cl||£260 per case of 6||IB|
Tremendous delicacy and finesse here, and yet at the same time this is undoudted... Read more
Tremendous delicacy and finesse here, and yet at the same time this is undoudtedly more concentrated than any of the wines which precede it. A very clear, textbook progression to 1er cru. White flowers and fruits on the nose and some flinty minerality. This is more approachable than any previous Folatieres we have tried from cask. RKL Close