2019 Domaine Tortochot En Primeur
Tortochot is a traditional domaine, established in the centre of Gevrey in the nineteenth century, but it certainly has not stood still. Neil Martin described it as 'a name to keep an eye on' and more recently as 'one to put back on your list'!
Chantal Tortochot is a traditional winemaker, but is not afraid to move with the times. On taking over from her father, she qualified as an oenologist and stopped selling her Gevrey fruit to negociant Joseph Drouhin, instead choosing to bottle her own wines. Working with consultant Sylvain Pataille (who is on lots of people's 'lists'), she converted the domaine to organic viticulture.
In recent vintages she has steadily increased the use of whole bunches used, from a tentative ten percent in the 2016 vintage, when we first discussed winemaking with her, to around twenty five percent in 2019. For winemakers of her generation, whole bunch fermentation was once a thing of the past, thought to produce wines with green aromas and harsh tannins, so Chantal's openness to change is impressive.
Embracing the return of this technique as a response to the warmer summers has kept the wines fresh and energetic. The reds were more open and full of sumptuous dark fruit than any vintage we have tasted here. At the same time, the undertow of minerality is evident, even in the brilliant value Gevrey-Chambertin 'Les Corvees' lieu-dit.
Tortochot's vineyard holdings in and around Gevrey
As we have said previously, Tortochot's grands crus are where the greatest value lies, with prices per six bottles less than the village wines of some of the so-called ‘blue-chip’ domaines of the Côtes de Nuits. We suggest snapping them up whilst allocations are available.
Offered en primeur, landing autumn 2021.
View the wines offered below.
Prices are ex-VAT per case of 12 bottles, unless otherwise advised. DP = duty-paid ex-London. IB = under bond ex-London.
|Red||2019||Tortochot - Chambertin grand cru||75cl||£795 per case of 6||IB|
From a plot of just 0.5 hectares which usually produces around seven barrel each... Read more
From a plot of just 0.5 hectares which usually produces around seven barrel each year, an impressive holding for this small domaine. Aged 18 months in new oak barrels. Not yet tasted. RKL Close
|Red||2019||Tortochot - Clos de Vougeot grand cru||75cl||£680 per case of 6||IB|
Tortochot's 21.33 ares (approx 0.2 ha) holding here comprises just seven rows of... Read more
Tortochot's 21.33 ares (approx 0.2 ha) holding here comprises just seven rows of vines, on the lower slopes of the Clos. Traditionally thought of as inferior to the higher parts, the warming climate means ripeness levels are increasing and the location is becoming a positive advantage. Aged 18 months in new oak barrels. Not yet tasted. RKL Close
|Red||2019||Tortochot - Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St Jacques 1er cru||75cl||£280 per case of 6||IB|
Tortochot, but not as we know it! Previous vintages of Lavaux from cask have be... Read more
Tortochot, but not as we know it! Previous vintages of Lavaux from cask have been quite closed but this is immediate and full of vibrant dark fruits and gamey aromas. The underlying minerality is very obvious and will define this wine in a few years, but for now it is all on the fruit. RKL Close
|Red||2019||Tortochot - Gevrey Chambertin Les Corvées||75cl||£180 per case of 6||IB|
Fermented in stainless steel. No new oak used in the elevage, all 1st year barr... Read more
Fermented in stainless steel. No new oak used in the elevage, all 1st year barrels. Intense and vibrant fruit on the nose, blackberry, damson, redcurrant and dark cherry, all very immediate. The sense of fullness continues on the palate with juicy black fruits, plenty of ripe tannins present but playing second fiddle to the fruit at the moment. Mineral notes on the finish. A progression in the winemaking style here, less classical and austere but the ripeness is beautifully handled. RKL Close
|Red||2019||Tortochot - Mazis Chambertin grand cru||75cl||£720 per case of 6||IB|
The domaine's 0.4 hectares of Mazis are on a subsoil of marl, covered by a thin ... Read more
The domaine's 0.4 hectares of Mazis are on a subsoil of marl, covered by a thin surface of scree and fine silt, covered by brown, chalky soils. The wine is aged in new oak for 18 months. Not yet tasted. RKL Close
|Red||2019||Tortochot - Morey St Denis Aux Charmes 1er cru||75cl||£250 per case of 6||IB|
Intense black and cherry fruits on the nose again, but the palate is distinct fr... Read more
Intense black and cherry fruits on the nose again, but the palate is distinct from the Gevrey and true to its terroir, with softer tannins and a rounder, fuller palate. Some spice and a palate-coating texture, with earthy notes resonating on the back of the palate. RKL Close