We last visited Martin’s Lane Vineyard in the Crouch Valley in autumn 2024, when the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes were ripening on the vine (pictured above). Graham Martin tells us that the 2024s are looking very promising in barrel and are due to be bottled next month. We hope to offer them to you as soon as they are released, but in the meantime, we have secured further stock of the excellent 2022 Chardonnay and Founder’s Pinot Noir, priced at £180 and £220 per six bottles respectively, including duty.

It is hard to convey how rapidly this area is emerging as what the FT’s Alice Lascelles described as “England’s Côte d’Or”, with over 500 acres now planted. New vineyards and winemakers are being drawn to the relatively warm, dry slopes along both sides of the River Crouch, including one large, well-known Californian producer who has just purchased 26 hectares here.  Since our last visit, not one but two Burgundy winemakers have partnered with Crouch Valley producers. Not all sites are equal, however, and standing on the elevated point pictured above, with its sweeping views across the river, it is clear that Martin’s Lane’s best parcels are among the ‘grand cru’ sites of the region.

I grew up on this river, in the sailing town of Burnham-on-Crouch, and never imagined it would become the heart of a dynamic wine region. At the time, its main gastronomic claim to fame was a thriving oyster trade, for which Burnham was famous until the last century (oysters are now flourishing again nearby at Maldon, on the River Blackwater, which forms the other side of the peninsula).

The dry climate, with its slightly higher sunshine hours and warmth, is often cited as the reason for the success of still wines here, but wine writer and scientist Jamie Goode offers a more nuanced explanation on his website. The chalk downs of southern England are ideal for preserving high acidity in sparkling wine production, but they can struggle to achieve sufficient ripeness for still wines. In the Crouch Valley, by contrast, the London Clay soils I remember from childhood (heavy and wet in winter, dry and cracking in summer) are rich in smectite. This is the same type of clay found at Pétrus and is often a marker distinguishing grand cru from premier cru sites in Burgundy.

Like all types of clay, smectite or 'swelling clay' retains water, but smectite has another unique property, being excellent at storing and exchanging mineral ions with vine roots. These soil properties play an important role in producing high-quality fruit capable of reaching optimal ripeness and developing complex aromas and flavours.

Another key factor behind the quality of wines in the valley is the work of viticultural consultant Duncan McNeill, who manages several vineyards across the area. English by birth, McNeill trained in Central Otago in New Zealand and in Germany’s Pfalz before returning to the UK in 2006 to establish his vineyard management business. His approach includes pruning methods that open up the bunches, reducing the risk of botrytis in autumn, which is always a concern during the typically damp English harvest.

The 2022 vintage was spectacular, making it a fitting tribute to Martin’s Lane founder Roy Martin, who sadly passed away unexpectedly in 2023. Roy did an enormous amount to identify and champion the potential of the Crouch Valley as England’s most exciting region for still wines, and we were deeply moved to taste the Pinot Noir bottled in his honour. Already approachable, it is nevertheless a wine that will reward cellaring for at least three to five years as it develops further layers of complexity.

You can read more about the estate and its founder below.

Please let us know if you would like to order.

Offer priced duty paid, excluding VAT, available for delivery in February 2026.