We often think of Chantal Tortochot's domaine as the most classical and 'untouched' but recent trends in winemaking. Perhaps we are doing her a disservice, as in recent vintages, Chantal has steadily increased the use of whole bunches used, from a tentative ten per cent in the 2016 vintage to around twenty-five per cent in 2019. For winemakers of her generation, whole bunch fermentation was once a thing of the past, thought to produce wines with green aromas and harsh tannins, so Chantal's openness to change is impressive.
Embracing the return of this technique as a response to the warmer summers has kept the wines fresh and energetic. The reds were more open and full of sumptuous dark fruit than any vintage we have tasted here. At the same time, the undertow of minerality is evident, even in the brilliant value Gevrey-Chambertin 'Les Corvees' lieu-dit.
Tortochot's vineyard holdings in and around Gevrey
As we have said previously, Tortochot's grands crus are where the greatest value lies, with prices per six bottles less than the village wines of some of the so-called ‘blue-chip’ domaines of the Côtes de Nuits. We suggest snapping them up whilst allocations are available.
Offered en primeur, landing autumn 2021.
|RED||2019||4 cases||Tortochot - Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St Jacques 1er cru||75cl||£280 per case of 6||Tortochot
2019 / 4 cases / 75cl
£280 per case of 6
Tasting NotesTortochot, but not as we know it! Previous vintages of Lavaux from cask have been quite closed but this is immediate and full of vibrant dark fruits and gamey aromas. The underlying minerality is very obvious and will define this wine in a few years, but for now it is all on the fruit. RKL
|RED||2019||2 cases||Tortochot - Morey St Denis Aux Charmes 1er cru||75cl||£250 per case of 6||Tortochot
2019 / 2 cases / 75cl
£250 per case of 6
Tasting NotesIntense black and cherry fruits on the nose again, but the palate is distinct from the Gevrey and true to its terroir, with softer tannins and a rounder, fuller palate. Some spice and a palate-coating texture, with earthy notes resonating on the back of the palate. RKL