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2019 Domaine Tortochot, Gevrey-Chambertin

We often think of Chantal Tortochot's domaine as the most classical and 'untouched' but recent trends in winemaking.  Perhaps we are doing her a disservice, as in recent vintages, Chantal has steadily increased the use of whole bunches used, from a tentative ten per cent in the 2016 vintage to around twenty-five per cent in 2019.  For winemakers of her generation, whole bunch fermentation was once a thing of the past, thought to produce wines with green aromas and harsh tannins, so Chantal's openness to change is impressive.

Embracing the return of this technique as a response to the warmer summers has kept the wines fresh and energetic.  The reds were more open and full of sumptuous dark fruit than any vintage we have tasted here.  At the same time, the undertow of minerality is evident, even in the brilliant value Gevrey-Chambertin 'Les Corvees' lieu-dit.

 

Tortochot's vineyard holdings in and around Gevrey

As we have said previously, Tortochot's grands crus are where the greatest value lies, with prices per six bottles less than the village wines of some of the so-called ‘blue-chip’ domaines of the Côtes de Nuits.  We suggest snapping them up whilst allocations are available.

Offered en primeur, landing autumn 2021.

 

Domaine Tortochot, Gevrey-Chambertin

Producer Profile

Domaine Tortochot, Gevrey-Chambertin

Tortochot is a traditional domaine, established in the centre of Gevrey in the nineteenth century, but it certainly has not stood still.  Neil Martin described it as 'a name to keep an eye on' and more recently as 'one to put back on your list'!  

Chantal Tortochot is a traditional winemaker but is not afraid to move with the times.  On taking over from her father, she qualified as an oenologist and stopped selling her Gevrey fruit to negociant Joseph Drouhin, instead choosing to bottle her own wines.  Working with consultant Sylvain Pataille (who is on lots of people's 'lists'), she converted the domaine to organic viticulture. 

RED 2019 Tortochot - Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St Jacques 1er cru 75cl £280 per case of 6 Tortochot
2019 / / 75cl
£280 per case of 6
IB
Tasting NotesTortochot, but not as we know it! Previous vintages of Lavaux from cask have been quite closed but this is immediate and full of vibrant dark fruits and gamey aromas. The underlying minerality is very obvious and will define this wine in a few years, but for now it is all on the fruit. RKL
RED 2019 Tortochot - Gevrey Chambertin Les Corvées 75cl £180 per case of 6 Tortochot
2019 / / 75cl
£180 per case of 6
IB
Tasting NotesFermented in stainless steel. No new oak used in the elevage, all 1st year barrels. Intense and vibrant fruit on the nose, blackberry, damson, redcurrant and dark cherry, all very immediate. The sense of fullness continues on the palate with juicy black fruits, plenty of ripe tannins present but playing second fiddle to the fruit at the moment. Mineral notes on the finish. A progression in the winemaking style here, less classical and austere but the ripeness is beautifully handled. RKL
RED 2019 Tortochot - Morey St Denis Aux Charmes 1er cru 75cl £250 per case of 6 Tortochot
2019 / / 75cl
£250 per case of 6
IB
Tasting NotesIntense black and cherry fruits on the nose again, but the palate is distinct from the Gevrey and true to its terroir, with softer tannins and a rounder, fuller palate. Some spice and a palate-coating texture, with earthy notes resonating on the back of the palate. RKL

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