Today we offer you three exceptionally good value white wines, newly landed, from Château de Chamilly in the Côte Chalonnaise, immediately available from bond.
Chamilly's 2020 Montagny 'Les Reculerons', Montagny 'Les Jardins' 1er Cru and Bouzeron Aligoté are among the best affordable white burgundies we know of and they are from a beautiful estate, even by Burgundian standards.
The Château was built in the 17th century, on the foundations of an earlier 14th-century manor. Owned since the 19th century by the Desfontaine family, for many years it was run as a mixed farm, producing cattle and grain. Brothers Arnaud and Xavier Desfontaine now run the domaine with their mother Veronique. The ongoing restoration of the (charmingly) run-down château is a constant battle. The brothers work tirelessly to improve the domaine and they do it with great humour and a sense of fun. The wines are equally likeable, but still show real complexity and a strong identity from their terroirs.
The 2020 Montagny 'Les Reculerons' (£160 per dozen in bond, equivalent to just £18.68 per bottle with all taxes) is from a single 'lieu-dit' vineyard, with clay and flint soils giving the wines a smoky, gun-flint character, as a foil for very ripe fruit on the palate. The 2020 Montagny 'Les Jardin's' 1er Cru (£210 per dozen in bond) is from vines on grey clay and limestone "gryphée", rich with Jurassic fossils. Les Jardins always stands out for its energy, even in hotter vintages.
For neophytes, the Bouzeron 'Les Bouchines' is from the now-fashionable Aligoté variety, showing how concentrated and fresh the wines from this neglected grape can be.
All three wines are drinking now, though the premier cru 'Les Jardins' will improve greatly with a year or so in bottle. As we have been saying since last year, we are anticipating a great shortage of white burgundy in coming months and the current extreme weather in France may well compound this. This is a great opportunity to add some authentic but affordable whites to your cellar.
Offered in bond, immediately available.
|WHITE||2020||4 cases||Château de Chamilly - Bouzeron 'Les Bouchines' Aligoté||75cl||£160 per case of 12||Château de Chamilly
Bouzeron 'Les Bouchines' Aligoté
2020 / 4 cases / 75cl
£160 per case of 12
Tasting NotesBright citrus fruit, lemon…yellow apples, green pea shoots. Full, ripe citrus and apple on the palate, excellent acidity, slight glycerin texture lending body and mouthfeel, with a twist of sour-lemon and even some orange on the finish. Possibly a more successful match for fish and shellfish even than Chamilly’s Montagny’s! 12.5% abv. RKL
|WHITE||2020||8 cases||Château de Chamilly - Montagny 'Les Jardins' 1er cru||75cl||£210 per case of 12||Château de Chamilly
Montagny 'Les Jardins' 1er cru
2020 / 8 cases / 75cl
£210 per case of 12
Tasting NotesMore assertive on the nose and more linear palate than Reculerons, a beautiful tightrope act of focused acidity balancing rich fruit (for a moment I thought of the tension in Michelot’s Meursault wines). Lemon pith on the palate, giving a chiselled texture, but the underlying fruit richness is there at the end. Excellent quality! 13% abv. RKL
|WHITE||2020||20 cases||Château de Chamilly - Montagny 'les Reculerons'||75cl||£160 per case of 12||Château de Chamilly
Montagny 'les Reculerons'
2020 / 20 cases / 75cl
£160 per case of 12
Tasting NotesBeautifully floral and delicate after the concentration of the Aligote, with clear gun-flint aromas and some peach fruit opening out after a few moments in glass…then the smoky (reductive) notes reassert themselves on the finish, in tandem with the fruit…very harmonious at the end. Really refined for this level. 13% abv. RKL