In all the years we have known Domaine Voillot in Volnay, we have seen them experience some exceptionally small harvests due to the vagaries of the weather, but none more so than in 2021. Etienne Chaix told us his average yield was less than 10 hl/ha! However, he did offer an ironic perspective that no one else we spoke to in Burgundy mentioned: Had it not been for the frost, 2021 would probably have been just a rather rainy year and the wines would not have been as good as they are. In reducing the yields, the frost led to concentrated fruit with particularly elegant aromas and a more classical expression than we have seen here for some years, the epitome of the Volnay-style.
Neil Martin's 87-88 points awarded to the 2021 Volnay Vieilles Vignes may seem modest, but in the currency of Vinous' burgundy scores, this rates it as 'Excellent'. More importantly, his tasting note is as enthusiastic as our own! We found the same sweet fruit, with a sense of volume on the palate, a perfect rendition of Volnay terroir, with the most perfect, elegant tannins and a fine balance.
The Volnay 1er Cru 'Les Champans' had an exceptionally fine, chalky palate and lovely acidity. Neil Martin's barrel score of 91-93 points puts this firmly in the 'Outstanding' category.
Pommard 'Les Rugiens' offered darker, more earthy cherry, strawberry, chocolate and coffee aromas, followed by more chocolate and strawberry notes on the palate, all very finely delineated. The trickiest of Voillot's wines to taste from cask, we think this will improve radically in bottle and could well be the star of the line-up.
Voillot is a true connoisseur's domaine, inexplicably overlooked by the market, but loved and respected by both the wine trade and critics, for the purity and elegance of the wines. Quantities are extremely limited, so please let us know as soon as possible if you would like to order.
Offered en primeur, landing Autumn 2023.