Recently we tasted an Austrian Grüner Veltliner that stopped us in our tracks. Loved by the wine trade and well-informed consumers, Grüner is a high-quality white grape that produces elegant, complex dry whites. Often, these are fresh wines for early drinking, but Grüner can also deliver intense, complex, layered whites with great richness.
Bernhard Ott is one of Austria's top winemakers and his 2021 Grüner Veltliner 'Der Ott' (£120 per six in bond) pushes the limits of what this grape can deliver. Ott's family have made wine in Niederösterreich ('Lower Austria') since 1889 and he took over the business in 1993, aged just 21.
Bernhard wanted to show that elegant, age-worthy wines could be produced from Grüner Veltliner grown on loess soil. Initially, he replaced old wooden casks with stainless steel and began working the vineyards, setting out to make the highest possible quality. In 2018, he returned to using 1000L Stockinger fuders, the traditional large oak barrels used in the Mosel.
From vineyards in the Wagram region of Niederösterreich, the fruit for Der Ott is predominantly from the 1er cru sites of Spiegel, Stein, and Rosenberg. The soils are Loess, red gravel, and calcareous. The fruit is basket pressed, then fermented and aged in large Stockinger oak of various sizes. 90% is “new” oak, but from wood that has been cured for 13 years. 'Respekt' certified biodyamic.
The 2021 had a rich texture and depth which reminded us of first class Vouvray from the Loire. It has a waxy, ripe fruit character, but is almost completely dry on the palate. Aromas of honeysuckle and pear lead to surprising green pea shoot flavours and fine, iodine minerality on the palate, an amazing balancing act of richness and freshness. It finishes very long, sustained by echoes of the saline and mineral notes. You could pair it with delicate white fish, like sole, or perhaps with fresh cheeses. However you serve it, we think it will stop you and your guests in their tracks too!
Stock is very limited and we understand that the 2021 is shortly to be featured by a well-known wine writer, hence we expect it to sell out rapidly.
Please simply email us if you would like to order.
Offered in bond, available May 2023.