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How does botrytis affect sweet wine?

Botrytis cinerea is a fungus that can affect grapes and other parts of the vine in humid conditions.  The names comes from the Greek botrys ('grape') and Latin cinerea ('ash-like', from the grey appearance of the affected grapes).  It can live through the winter as mycelium or sclerotium within dormant buds, vine bark or on plant debris on the ground.  Grapes typically become infected with Botrytis late in the season, during the sugar accumulation phase, i.e. when they are ripe.  

The more common expression of botrytis is as devastating gray rot (“pourriture gris”), a common malady of the vine, experienced in many regions.  However, in some areas, in the right conditions, a desirable botrytis infection occurs, producing what is called noble rot (“pourriture noble”).  Regions producing sweet wines influenced by botrytis cinerea include Tokaj from Hungary, Sauternes and Trockenbeerenauslese from Germany.  

A classic botrytis year might proceed on the following lines:  Humid weather in July, as the grapes are beginning to accumulate sugars, followed by hot, dry weather, shrivelling the grapes and producing a raisin-effect; followed by autumn mists, which encourage the botrytis to bloom and develop slowly.  

The mould dehydrates the grapes, leaving them shrivelled and raisin-like, and concentrates the sugars in the process, turning them from simple into complex sugars, which develop a huge range of flavours with time in bottle.  The result is a sweet wine with deep, honey-like luscious flavors.  Some of the classic aromas of developed botrytised wines are ginger, honey, beeswax and wet sticking plaster (elastoplast!).

A microscopic view of the filaments of botrytis cinerea mould that penetrate the grape skin, drawing out moisture and converting simple sugars into complex sugars in the process

The terroir in Sauternes is particularly suited to this process, with the Garonne and Ciron rivers producing mists in the morning, which then burn off in the warm afternoon autumn sunshine, a scene that always reminds us of Keats’ line (or was it Mr Kipling....) about the “season of mists and mellow fruitfulness”.  No other wine we can think of is able to capture more perfectly the weather of a particular year and to express it many decades later.  Currently, we have some bottles of 1893 Yquem on our list that, 130 years on, still show signs of the rain and mist which affected Sauternes in October of that year.

Because the amount of juice extracted from these grapes is extremely low, it takes a lot of vines to produce a small amount of wine.  Yields in Sauternes, for instance, are often around 8-15 hectolitres per hectare (compared with 35-45 hl/ha for comparable red Bordeaux estates).

Below, you will find some of the Sauternes from our list.

Producer Profile

Tim Wood

Tim Wood has worked in the wine trade since 1995, with stints at well-known trade names including Corney & Barrow, Enotria and Mentzendorff.  After completing his WSET Diploma in 1999, he qualified as a WSET Educator in 2007 and completed the Stage I of the MW in 2018.  Tim joined Richard Kihl Ltd in 2018 and specializes in Burgundy.

WHITE 1893 2 bottles Château d'Yquem 75cl £4,500 per bottle Château d'Yquem
1893 / 2 bottles / 75cl
£4,500 per bottle
DP
WHITE 1929 1 bottle Château d'Yquem 75cl £2,200 per bottle Château d'Yquem
1929 / 1 bottle / 75cl
£2,200 per bottle
DP
Tasting Notes"The 1929 Yquem ranks as one of the greatest Sauternes that I have ever tasted. It was picked between 20 September and 9 October, some sugar levels reaching 26° potential alcohol. Limpid golden in colour, it has an intense bouquet with blood orange, Japanese yuzu, elderflower and golden raisins that are all delivered with the most breath-taking definition. The palate is perfectly balanced, symmetrical even, its acidity effortlessly slicing through the concentrated, rich botrytised fruit. This ranks as one of the most penetrating bottles of Yquem that I have tasted, perhaps only equaled by the 1945. Monumental. Tasted at Epure restaurant in Hong Kong. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2045. 100 points." Neal Martin, Feb '22
WHITE 1942 1 bottle Château d'Yquem 75cl £2,400 per bottle Château d'Yquem
1942 / 1 bottle / 75cl
£2,400 per bottle
DP
WHITE 1947 1 bottle Château d'Yquem 75cl £3,300 per bottle Château d'Yquem
1947 / 1 bottle / 75cl
£3,300 per bottle
DP
WHITE 1949 1 bottle Château d'Yquem 75cl £1,700 per bottle Château d'Yquem
1949 / 1 bottle / 75cl
£1,700 per bottle
DP
WHITE 1958 1 bottle Château d'Yquem 75cl £1,050 per bottle Château d'Yquem
1958 / 1 bottle / 75cl
£1,050 per bottle
DP
WHITE 1966 1 bottle Château d'Yquem 75cl £795 per bottle Château d'Yquem
1966 / 1 bottle / 75cl
£795 per bottle
DP
WHITE 1967 6 bottles Château Suduiraut 75cl £280 per bottle Château Suduiraut
1967 / 6 bottles / 75cl
£280 per bottle
DP
WHITE 1971 1 bottle Château d'Yquem 75cl £750 per bottle Château d'Yquem
1971 / 1 bottle / 75cl
£750 per bottle
DP
WHITE 1975 1 case Château d'Yquem 75cl £10,500 per case of 12 Château d'Yquem
1975 / 1 case / 75cl
£10,500 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 1976 1 bottle Château d'Yquem 75cl £495 per bottle Château d'Yquem
1976 / 1 bottle / 75cl
£495 per bottle
DP
WHITE 1990 1 bottle Château d'Yquem Half bottle £160 per bottle Château d'Yquem
1990 / 1 bottle / Half bottle
£160 per bottle
DP
WHITE 1990 1 case Château d'Yquem 75cl £3,800 per case of 12 Château d'Yquem
1990 / 1 case / 75cl
£3,800 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2001 1 case Château Clos Haut Peyraguey 75cl £460 per case of 12 Château Clos Haut Peyraguey
2001 / 1 case / 75cl
£460 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2001 3 bottles Château Rieussec 75cl £120 per bottle Château Rieussec
2001 / 3 bottles / 75cl
£120 per bottle
IB
WHITE 2003 9 bottles Château Rieussec 75cl £40 per bottle Château Rieussec
2003 / 9 bottles / 75cl
£40 per bottle
IB
Tasting Notes"The 2016 Rieussec is a blend of 83% Sémillon, 12% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle picked form 26 September until 4 November. It has a much more straightforward bouquet compared to the 2015 with light honeysuckle and white flower aromas. There is good acidity in the mouth thanks the passerillé berries, nicely balanced with a touch of orange zest towards the linear finish that will hopefully gain more weight during its élevage. It is likely to be an earlier-drinking Rieussec than the 2015. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, RobertParker.com "The 2016 Rieussec is gorgeous. Despite the relatively low acidity of the vintage, it preserves a good deal of aromatic freshness, with plenty of lemon confit, passion fruit and coconut overtones. The decision to lower the Sémillon a touch and increase the Sauvignon Blanc has paid handsome rewards. The 2016 is not a truly profound Sauternes - that would have been nearly impossible this vintage - but it comes close. Quite frankly, it is nearly impossible to spit. 93-96 points" vinous.com (AG) "Lots of botrytis here in addition to dried mushrooms and dried fruit such as pineapple and peaches. Medium to full body. Medium sweet. Very long and intense. A triumph. 98-99 points" jamessuckling.com
WHITE 2003 8 cases Château Rieussec Half bottle £395 per case of 24 Château Rieussec
2003 / 8 cases / Half bottle
£395 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2005 8 cases Château Clos Haut Peyraguey Half bottle £330 per case of 24 Château Clos Haut Peyraguey
2005 / 8 cases / Half bottle
£330 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2005 2 cases Château de Fargues 75cl £660 per case of 12 Château de Fargues
2005 / 2 cases / 75cl
£660 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2005 8 cases Château de Fargues Half bottle £695 per case of 24 Château de Fargues
2005 / 8 cases / Half bottle
£695 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2005 1 case Château Doisy Vedrines 75cl £280 per case of 12 Château Doisy Vedrines
2005 / 1 case / 75cl
£280 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2005 2 cases Château Guiraud Half bottle £420 per case of 24 Château Guiraud
2005 / 2 cases / Half bottle
£420 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2005 1 case Château La Tour Blanche 75cl £360 per case of 12 Château La Tour Blanche
2005 / 1 case / 75cl
£360 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2005 3 cases Château Raymond Lafon Half bottle £450 per case of 24 Château Raymond Lafon
2005 / 3 cases / Half bottle
£450 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2005 2 cases Château Rayne Vigneau 75cl £340 per case of 12 Château Rayne Vigneau
2005 / 2 cases / 75cl
£340 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2005 10 cases Château Rayne Vigneau Half bottle £360 per case of 24 Château Rayne Vigneau
2005 / 10 cases / Half bottle
£360 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2005 1 case Château Rieussec 75cl £495 per case of 12 Château Rieussec
2005 / 1 case / 75cl
£495 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2005 1 case Château Suduiraut 75cl £520 per case of 12 Château Suduiraut
2005 / 1 case / 75cl
£520 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2006 2 cases Château de Fargues Half bottle £660 per case of 24 Château de Fargues
2006 / 2 cases / Half bottle
£660 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2007 2 cases Château Doisy Vedrines Half bottle £260 per case of 24 Château Doisy Vedrines
2007 / 2 cases / Half bottle
£260 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2007 1 case Château Suduiraut 75cl £450 per case of 12 Château Suduiraut
2007 / 1 case / 75cl
£450 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2009 1 case Château Clos Haut Peyraguey 75cl £350 per case of 12 Château Clos Haut Peyraguey
2009 / 1 case / 75cl
£350 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2009 2 cases Château Clos Haut Peyraguey Half bottle £370 per case of 24 Château Clos Haut Peyraguey
2009 / 2 cases / Half bottle
£370 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2009 1 case Château Doisy Daene Half bottle £320 per case of 24 Château Doisy Daene
2009 / 1 case / Half bottle
£320 per case of 24
DP
WHITE 2009 3 cases Château Guiraud Half bottle £495 per case of 24 Château Guiraud
2009 / 3 cases / Half bottle
£495 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2009 1 case Château Raymond Lafon Half bottle £280 per case of 24 Château Raymond Lafon
2009 / 1 case / Half bottle
£280 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2009 2 cases Château Rayne Vigneau 75cl £380 per case of 12 Château Rayne Vigneau
2009 / 2 cases / 75cl
£380 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2009 3 cases Château Rayne Vigneau Half bottle £395 per case of 24 Château Rayne Vigneau
2009 / 3 cases / Half bottle
£395 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2009 6 cases Château Sigalas Rabaud Half bottle £210 per case of 12 Château Sigalas Rabaud
2009 / 6 cases / Half bottle
£210 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2009 1 case Château Sigalas Rabaud 75cl £330 per case of 12 Château Sigalas Rabaud
2009 / 1 case / 75cl
£330 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2009 1 case Château Suduiraut 75cl £600 per case of 12 Château Suduiraut
2009 / 1 case / 75cl
£600 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2009 2 cases Château Suduiraut Half bottle £600 per case of 24 Château Suduiraut
2009 / 2 cases / Half bottle
£600 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2010 1 case Château Raymond Lafon 75cl £340 per case of 12 Château Raymond Lafon
2010 / 1 case / 75cl
£340 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2010 1 case Château Rieussec 75cl £380 per case of 12 Château Rieussec
2010 / 1 case / 75cl
£380 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2011 1 case Château Climens 75cl £225 per case of 6 Château Climens
2011 / 1 case / 75cl
£225 per case of 6
IB
WHITE 2011 1 case Château Raymond Lafon Half bottle £295 per case of 24 Château Raymond Lafon
2011 / 1 case / Half bottle
£295 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2013 1 case Château Suduiraut 75cl £260 per case of 6 Château Suduiraut
2013 / 1 case / 75cl
£260 per case of 6
IB
EX-CHATEAU
WHITE 2014 1 case Château Doisy Vedrines Half bottle £240 per case of 24 Château Doisy Vedrines
2014 / 1 case / Half bottle
£240 per case of 24
IB
WHITE 2014 1 case Château Suduiraut Half bottle £225 per case of 12 Château Suduiraut
2014 / 1 case / Half bottle
£225 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2015 1 case Château Rieussec 75cl £450 per case of 12 Château Rieussec
2015 / 1 case / 75cl
£450 per case of 12
IB
WHITE 2016 3 cases Château Rieussec 75cl £175 per case of 6 Château Rieussec
2016 / 3 cases / 75cl
£175 per case of 6
IB
Tasting Notes"The 2016 Rieussec is a blend of 83% Sémillon, 12% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle picked form 26 September until 4 November. It has a much more straightforward bouquet compared to the 2015 with light honeysuckle and white flower aromas. There is good acidity in the mouth thanks the passerillé berries, nicely balanced with a touch of orange zest towards the linear finish that will hopefully gain more weight during its élevage. It is likely to be an earlier-drinking Rieussec than the 2015. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, RobertParker.com "The 2016 Rieussec is gorgeous. Despite the relatively low acidity of the vintage, it preserves a good deal of aromatic freshness, with plenty of lemon confit, passion fruit and coconut overtones. The decision to lower the Sémillon a touch and increase the Sauvignon Blanc has paid handsome rewards. The 2016 is not a truly profound Sauternes - that would have been nearly impossible this vintage - but it comes close. Quite frankly, it is nearly impossible to spit. 93-96 points" vinous.com (AG) "Lots of botrytis here in addition to dried mushrooms and dried fruit such as pineapple and peaches. Medium to full body. Medium sweet. Very long and intense. A triumph. 98-99 points" jamessuckling.com
WHITE 2018 1 case Château d'Yquem 75cl £1,395 per case of 6 Château d'Yquem
2018 / 1 case / 75cl
£1,395 per case of 6
IB
WHITE 2019 1 case Château d'Yquem 75cl £750 per case of 3 Château d'Yquem
2019 / 1 case / 75cl
£750 per case of 3
IB
WHITE 2019 1 case Château Rieussec 75cl £330 per case of 4 Château Rieussec
2019 / 1 case / 75cl
£330 per case of 4
IB
Tasting Notes"Pale lemon-gold in color, the 2019 Rieussec flaunts a delicately scented nose of fresh grapefruit, lemon curd, lime leaves and clover honey with wafts of jasmine, white truffles and nutmeg. The palate slowly builds, revealing layers of apple and citrus fruits with loads of savory accents, framed by refreshing acidity and a seductively oily texture, finishing on a lingering honey-nut note. 94-96 points." Lisa Perotti-Brown MW, The Wine Advocate------"Expertly constructed, with luxuriously intense pineapple, mango and apricot pit flavours matched step for step by bitter orange peel, lime juice and tingling grated ginger. Sauternes doesn't always manage to deliver such a mouth-watering mix of satin texture set against pinpoint acidity, but the late harvest 2019 - botrytis arrived when the nights were cool - made for some exceptionally successful wines in the appellation, even if yields were tiny. This is a delicious Rieussec, full of personality, and its 120g/l residual sugar leaves its trace in texture rather than in weight. First year of organic certification. 96 points" Janeanson.com
WHITE 2020 Château d'Yquem Magnum £530 per bottle Château d'Yquem
2020 / / Magnum
£530 per bottle
IB
WHITE 2020 Château d'Yquem Half bottle £795 per case of 6 Château d'Yquem
2020 / / Half bottle
£795 per case of 6
IB
WHITE 2020 Château d'Yquem 75cl £795 per case of 3 Château d'Yquem
2020 / / 75cl
£795 per case of 3
IB
WHITE 2020 Château d'Yquem 75cl £1,590 per case of 6 Château d'Yquem
2020 / / 75cl
£1,590 per case of 6
IB
WHITE 2022 Château Climens 75cl £670 per case of 6 Château Climens
2022 / / 75cl
£670 per case of 6
IB
WHITE 2022 Château Lafaurie Peyraguey 75cl £360 per case of 6 Château Lafaurie Peyraguey
2022 / / 75cl
£360 per case of 6
IB
Tasting Notes"A wine that made me call the winemaker to better understand its composition and which, for better or worse, gives an insight into the conditions facing Sauternes in the vintage. This is 260g/l residual sugar, almost double what you can expect in a typical year, from a 10hl/h yield. Extremely luxurious and luscious, powerful concentration to the marmalade, smoked caramel, apricot puree, white truffle and ginger. It’s impressive, but the contrasting acidity and lift that you find in exceptional Sauternes vintages is conspicuously absent. 91 points" janeanson.com------"The 2022 Lafaurie-Peyraguey has a very fragrant, floral bouquet with pure botrytised fruit, wonderful delineation and sense of mineralite. The palate is smooth and sensual, dried honey and quince, lightly spiced with a gentle crescendo on its polished and long finish. This is a very strong follow-up to the 2021. 95-97 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com ------"Another mind-blowing Sauternes with dense and concentrated fruit, and incredible depth and power. Spices galore. Very sweet. 260 grams residual sugar. Twice the normal year. French TBA? 95% semillon and 5% sauvignon blanc. 99-100 points" jamessuckling.com
WHITE 2022 Château Suduiraut 75cl £291 per case of 6 Château Suduiraut
2022 / / 75cl
£291 per case of 6
IB
Tasting Notes"Amber in colour, with tropical fruits of passion fruit and mango on the opening beats, clear depth of flavour and contrast provided by orange peel and aniseed bitterness, low acidity. Luscious, silky, powerful, enjoyable. Pierre Montégut technical director, 7hl/h yields, 70% new barrels 30% from barrels of one vintage. 92 points" janeanson.com------"The 2022 Suduiraut is laced with hints of tangerine peel, spice, vanillin, chamomile and dried flowers. It offers a lovely mix of botrytis-inflected flavors and textures while also showing quite a bit of freshness. The 2022 is done in the lighter style the château favors these days. My impression is that it is still coming together, as the wine shows a very slight lack of cohesion that is not typical. 92-94 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"The 2022 Suduiraut comes from a quick and late harvest in October (three tries between 17 and 27 October with some passerillé grapes in September). Bunches were affected by botrytis but did not concentrate, at least not until a period of wind and warmth. Wild honey, quince and touches of marmalade on the nose, this opens nicely in the glass. The palate is pure and viscous in texture, with marmalade, again, and dried honey. Very open and approachable on the finish. Not profound, but quite delicious. Christian Seely said he drank this for breakfast the previous day - why not? 95-97 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"One of the finest Sauternes I've been lucky enough to taste in some time, the 2022 Château Suduiraut is 100% Sémillon that hit 13.9% natural alcohol, with 190 grams per liter of residual sugar. Still resting in 70% new barrels, this monster of a Sauternes offers a huge nose of honeyed citrus, orange marmalade, spice, brioche, and almond paste. Full-bodied, rich, and massively concentrated, nevertheless, it somehow stays flawlessly balanced, fresh, and light on its feet. 97-99 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"Wow. This is incredibly concentrated with such depth and power. Dried oranges. Full-bodied with some phenolic tension that frames the wine perfectly. Dried apricots and peaches. Incredible richness and freshness. Spicy and flavorful. Tastes more like a BA from Germany! 100% semillon. 98-99 points" jamessuckling.com

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