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Burgundy 2022 En Primeur: Moulin-à-Vent from Château des Jacques

Following yesterday's offer of Louis Jadot's top reds and whites from the 2022 vintage, today we offer the new releases from Château des Jacques, their superb property in Moulin-à-Vent.  We have just re-tasted the wines and yet again, we are amazed by their 'pinosity'; or in other words, by just how Burgundian the wines are.    

We have been singing the praises of Château des Jacques' Moulin-à-Vents for a few vintages now and we very much enjoyed tasting the 2022s.  This exceptionally sunny vintage has produced remarkably balanced wines with freshness and restraint and not a hint of the heat that characterised the year.

Château des Jacques is in the village of Romanèche-Thorins and has a reputation for making long-lived wines that grow more like Pinot Noir as they age.  Jadot bought the Château in 1996, starting what is now a widespread trend for Côte de Nuits growers to extend south.  

Winemaker Cyril Chirouze has been in charge since 2007, bar a stint working in Marsannay, which perhaps contributed to the wines moving ever closer in style to the Côte de Nuits.  With destemming, long macerations, new oak and extended élevage, the Wine Advocate's William Kelley calls it "winemaking reimagined with a Burgundian accent". 

As Gamay ages, the style and aroma move closer to Pinot Noir.  Moulin-à-Vent has inherent ageing potential, with its pink granite sub-soil ("rochegrès") rich in manganese.  Crushed-rock mineral notes associated with granite terroirs are intensified by the effect of the manganese, which reduces the yield and concentrates the fruit in the process. 

With their impressive complexity and length on the palate, at just £240 per dozen in bond, these are two fine red burgundies that will equal any occasion.  As to which to go for; opinion was split on the office, with Antony appreciating the dark, brambly fruit-intensity and fine tannins of the Carquelin, whilst I preferred the granitic-mineral character of the Rochegrès, with its lifted acidity and firmer tannins.

Offered en primeur, expected December 2024.


RED 2022 Château de Jacques, Louis Jadot - Moulin a Vent Clos de Rochegrès 75cl £240 per case of 12 Château de Jacques, Louis Jadot
Moulin a Vent Clos de Rochegrès
2022 / / 75cl
£240 per case of 12
Tasting NotesThe Rochegrès vineyard is 361 metres above sea level and has soils of pink granite, with quartz. Aged for 10 months in a mix of old and new oak. The 2022 is full of red and black fruits with a dark, bramble character, with very refined, ripe tannins and excellent acidity. Impossible not to like. RKL
RED 2022 Château de Jacques, Louis Jadot - Moulin a Vent Clos du Grand Carquelin 75cl £240 per case of 12 Château de Jacques, Louis Jadot
Moulin a Vent Clos du Grand Carquelin
2022 / / 75cl
£240 per case of 12
Tasting NotesJust a few steps from the eponymous windmill of Moulin-à-Vent, and separated from the la Roche vineyard by a small road, the Clos du Grand Carquelin faces more towards the south and the soil is made of granitic sands and is deeper (60m) and more clayish. Bright acidity frames the tannins and emphases the crushed rock character on the palate, with crunchy red fruit and nascent complexity evident in the very long finish. RKL

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