We will be in Bordeaux next week for our annual en primeur tasting trip, tasting several hundred wines from the 2023 vintage and visiting key châteaux, including great names like Cheval Blanc, Le Pin, VCC, Angelus, Ausone, Tertre Roteboeuf, Lafite-Rothschild, Latour, Margaux and many more. This is always a privilege but it's also a critical time in our business year when we have to make tough decisions about which wines to buy as they are released over the coming weeks.
The headline for the 2023 growing season is a heterogeneous vintage, with the best wines featuring plenty of ripe fruit but even more freshness than in recent great years like 2022 or 2020. Mildew and scattered rainfall affected some estates severely, and others hardly at all, so tasting to identify hits or misses will be even more important than usual. You can read our summary of the 2023 Growing Season below.
We will taste wines from the very top 200-300 châteaux out of some 6000 estates in Bordeaux, to select around 60-100 wines. The ones we then offer will be determined by their value relative to quality, once prices are released. It looks like the releases will be very early this year, with some big names due out in late April and many others in May.
The 2023 Growing Season in Bordeaux
Our summary of the growing season in 2023 is taken from an excellent report prepared by the Oenology Research Unit of the University of Bordeaux[i] for the UGC.
We are hoping for some excellent reds, with plenty of ripeness, but with fresher acidity levels than in 2022 and 2020. It will be interesting to see how properties affected by mildew or with reduced quantities of Merlot have adapted. We are also looking forward to some exceptional dry whites and Sauternes.
[i] Prof. Laurence Geny, Elodie Guittard, Dr. Valérie Lavigne and Prof. Axel Marchal Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences of Bordeaux University, Oenology Research Unit, ‘The 2023 vintage in Bordeaux’
RED | 2023 | Château Angludet | 75cl | £288 per case of 12 | Château Angludet 2023 / / 75cl £288 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"A polished and in-check red with blackberry, dark-chocolate and walnut aromas and flavors. It has a medium body, creamy and round tannins and a savory finish. Well done for this estate. Better than 2022. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Angludet | Half bottle | £313 per case of 24 | Château Angludet 2023 / / Half bottle £313 per case of 24 |
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RED | 2023 | Château Ausone | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Ausone 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"I don't think I have tasted an Ausone like this. The purity of fruit and fluidity is so primary, like perfectly picked grapes with their juice. Then there is citrus freshness. It's muscular, with toned tannins that caress the palate and give a seamless finish. This really could push the boundaries for the character of Ausone, in the way of finesse with structure. Watch it. 60% cabernet franc and 40% merlot. 98-99 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Beaumont | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Beaumont 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"Notes of dark berry and walnut here. It’s medium-bodied with a grainy texture and some good fruit at the end. 89-90 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Beychevelle | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Beychevelle 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"Pure fruit to this, with blueberries, hazelnuts, walnut and blackcurrants. Just like eating grapes at this stage. It has a full body, juicy tannins and a savory finish. Remains vivid and energetic. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Canon | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Canon 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"This is so elegant and sophisticated already, with a really electric presence and length that goes on and on. It's medium- to full-bodied with an intensity of tannins. It remains weightless and energetic. The pH is 3.41, making this a vivid and lively wine. Currant, orange and stone. Sea salt, too. The limestone soils created a unique wine here in 2023. A blend of 71% merlot and 29% cabernet franc. 99-100 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Carlmagnus | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Carlmagnus 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"Juicy red with fresh red and dark berries and a hint of citrus peel. Medium-bodied with firm but fine tannins. Crunchy finish. 90-91 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Cheval Blanc | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Cheval Blanc 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"This is so cabernet, with blackcurrants, blackberries, crushed stone, graphite and lead pencil. Full-bodied with tight, chewy tannins that remain fine yet energetic. Winemaker Pierre-Olivier Clouet says this wine is a benchmark for Cheval Blanc. Reminds me of the great 1983. 13.8% alcohol. 52% merlot, 46% cabernet franc and 2% cabernet sauvignon. 98-99 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Clerc Milon | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Clerc Milon 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"This has a great finish, with blackcurrant, chocolate, hazelnut and salt undertones that run the length of the wine. Full-bodied and dense, and then it lifts off at the end. Chalky undertone, coming from the limestone terroir here. 72% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, 6.5% cabernet franc, 1.5% carmenere and 1% petit verdot. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Clerc Milon - Pastourelle de Clerc Milon | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Clerc Milon Pastourelle de Clerc Milon 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"A salty undertone to the blackberry and terra-cotta character. Dark fruit. Medium to full body, layered tannins and an intense finish. Excellent density. Special this year. 63% merlot, 29% cabernet sauvignon, 5% cabernet franc, 2% carmenere and 1% petit verdot. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com |
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WHITE | 2023 | Château Coutet | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Coutet 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"A Barsac with dried-apple, apricot and spice character. The botrytis comes through with a healthy and clean nature to it. Medium-bodied and medium-sweet with a spicy finish. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château d'Armailhac | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château d'Armailhac 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"There’s a powdery and open texture to this red. Fullbodied and layered with a pretty and weightless texture. Blackcurrants and blueberries and an orange-peel undertone. Velvety texture at the end. 70% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, 13% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château d'Issan | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château d'Issan 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The purity of the fruit is really wonderful here, with blackcurrants, orange peel and raspberries. Aromatic. Full body, chewy tannins and a juicy finish. But it remains linear and vivid. The quality of the tannins and the powdery texture are really alluring. Silky. And so precise. 70% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 2.5% cabernet franc and 2.5% petit verdot. 13.83% alcohol. 3.66 pH. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Ducru Beaucaillou - Le Petit Ducru | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Ducru Beaucaillou Le Petit Ducru 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The density here is very pretty with blackcurrant and lead pencil. Graphite, too. Medium-bodied, balanced and savory. Fine and perfumed. Solid finish. 72% merlot, 24% cabernet sauvignon and 4% petit verdot. 92-93 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Grand Puy Lacoste | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Grand Puy Lacoste 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"Beautiful purity and freshness to the blackcurrants and blackberries with subtle notes of cedar and graphite. Medium- to full-bodied. So polished and silky, almost weightless. It’s very long. 77% cabernet sauvignon and 23% merlot. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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WHITE | 2023 | Château Guiraud | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Guiraud 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"You really see the class and botrytis character here with clarity and focus. Notes of spice, mushroom powder, subtle apricot and honey. It’s medium-bodied, fresh and bright with nice sweetness at the end. A modern and precise Sauternes. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Haut Bages Liberal | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Haut Bages Liberal 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"A very pure and beautiful HBL with blackcurrant and mineral notes, like crushed stones, as well as a vivid freshness. Purity and brightness in the center-palate, with essence of cassis and a crunchy minerality from part of the vineyard in limestone. 86% cabernet sauvignon and 14% merlot. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Haut Brisson | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Haut Brisson 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"Another very focused 2023 St.-Emilion with berry, chocolate and earth notes. It’s medium- to full-bodied with a solid core of fruit and a bright, vivid and very long finish. Well-integrated tannins. This is one to watch. 95% merlot and 5% cabernet franc. Better than 2022. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château La Gaffeliere | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château La Gaffeliere 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The center-palate reflects excellent terroir, with blackberry, black-olive and walnut aromas and flavors. Tight centerpalate with firm but creamy tannins and a flavorful, classy finish. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Lafite | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Lafite 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The purity of cabernet sauvignon is so evident here. It mesmerizes you with aromas of black and red currants, cedar, tobacco and bark. It's full-bodied yet there's very impressive weightlessness and agility, as well as subtlety and focus. Some iron and terra-cotta. Cedar and sandalwood undertones. Juicy and plummy at the end. 12.9% alcohol. 3.75 pH. A blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Lafite - Carruades de Lafite | 75cl | £0 per case of 6 | Château Lafite Carruades de Lafite 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"A savory and juicy Carruades with softness and notes of ripe berry, cedar and dried tobacco. Like Lafite from the 1980s but more precise. Round and pretty. It really grows on the finish with such sweetness of fruit and length. Pointed, fine tannins at the end. Very long. A blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Laroque | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Laroque 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"This is full and substantial, with firm tannins and a crunchy finish. Lots of blue fruit, blackberry, crushed-stone and mineral character. Very structured. 99% merlot and 1% cabernet franc. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Léoville Las Cases | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Léoville Las Cases 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"Exceptional quality of cabernet comes through here, with a lot of graphite, lead pencil, crushed stone, walnut and currant fruit. It grows and expands on the palate, remaining in focus at the same time. Refined and seamless with beautiful tannins that show power and intensity. It rolls across the palate with verve. 86% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc and 4% merlot. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Les Gravières | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Les Gravières 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The berry, chalk and walnut character comes through in both the nose and palate here. Medium to full body. Iodine. Sea shell. Great. Check it out. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Lilian Ladouys | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Lilian Ladouys 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"A crunchy wine with blackcurrant, blueberry and crushedstone aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, creamy and polished. 57% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot, 5% petit verdot and 1% cabernet franc. 92-93 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Mouton Rothschild | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Mouton Rothschild 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"This is the most structured Mouton since the great 2016, with tannins that start slowly and then take off. It’s muscular and toned. It’s full-bodied but doesn’t come across too heavy. It builds up in intensity and goes on and on and on. It just keeps expanding. I took a double take here. 93% cabernet sauvignon and 7% merlot. 98-99 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Palmer - Alter Ego de Palmer | 75cl | £0 per case of 6 | Château Palmer Alter Ego de Palmer 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"This is dense and velvety with a creamy texture. Blackberry, blueberry and stone aromas and flavors. Layered. Very primary and focused. 53% cabernet sauvignon, 43% merlot and 4% petit verdot. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Phelan Ségur | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Phelan Ségur 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The polish and intensity of this wine is beautiful for the vintage, with blackcurrant, lead pencil and light chocolate character. It’s medium- to full-bodied with well-integrated fruit and tannins, and a long finish. Velvet texture. Excellent potential. Fermented from selected yeast from the various parcels. 58% cabernet sauvignon, 39% merlot, 1.5% petit verdot, and 1.5% cabernet franc. Let’s see which is better in the end, 2022 or 2023. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Potensac | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Potensac 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"Beautiful dark fruit with purity and freshness. Medium- to full-bodied, seamless and compact. Outstanding quality of tannins, so fine and dense. It’s muscular and taut on the mid-palate. Lingering, too. Plenty of energy. Close to 2022. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Château Tour Saint Christophe | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Tour Saint Christophe 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The quality of fruit and salty undertones from the limestone soil are really delicious and exciting. Medium to full body and very fine, velvety tannins that spread across the palate. Bright and crunchy at the end. 80% merlot and 20% cabernet franc. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Domaine de Chevalier | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Domaine de Chevalier 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"Plenty of blackberry, blackcurrant, chocolate and flint aromas that follow through to a full body, yet it’s in check and focused with a beautiful framing of fine tannins. The purity of ripe fruit is impressive with cabernet really showing through. 63% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 5% petit verdot and 2% cabernet franc. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com |
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RED | 2023 | Les Pagodes de Cos | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Les Pagodes de Cos 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The polished and creamy texture here is extremely attractive, with blueberry, blackcurrant and crushed-stone aromas and flavors. It’s medium-bodied with linear tannins, showing polish and finesse. Creamy mouth-feel. Second wine of Cos. 12.9% alcohol. 51% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com |
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