2019 Domaine Jeannin-Naltet En Primeur
Domaine Jeannin-Naltet in Mercurey was a new find for us last year. A small, family-owned domaine, it has been undergoing a transformation since Benoît Eschard took over from his uncle, seven years ago.
asting from cask always involves a mixture of experience and trust that the bottled wines will fulfill the potential they show in barrel. We were thrilled when we re-tasted 2018s in bottle a few weeks ago. The serious and somewhat intellectual style we enjoyed so much at the domaine, with lots of limestone terroir notes, has really fleshed out with dark, sumptuous black fruit character, which reminds us of Côte de Nuits reds. We have no doubt that if these wines came from a Côte de Nuits address, they would command a far higher price.
Last week we tasted cask samples of the 2019s. It was immediately clear that these were from the same domaine, but the vibrant fruit and silky texture is even more obvious in 2019 and the wines were wonderfully fresh. Benoît points out that the lack of rain before harvest which led to a small vintage also meant that the tartaric acid levels in the fruit were not diluted; a useful explanation to the conundrum of how wines from such a hot year can still be so fresh.
The result is wines which are very accessible now, but which have long ageing potential. We recommend buying the '19s en primeur and asking us if we have any of the 2018s left (not much) to drink while you wait (not long).
Nearly 8 of Benoît's 9 hectares are premier cru and he has been working hard to emphasize freshness and minerality in his 1er Cru Clos des Grand Voyens (a monopole, owned solely by the domaine) and 1er cru Les Nauges.
'Grand Voyens' is on a mixture of clay and limestone and shows both chalky-limestone character and a softer, more broad-shouldered style. Les Nauges undoubtedly has more concentration, but more limestone in the terroir gives a tauter structure, which will take a little longer to come round for drinking. Both well under £20 in bond per bottle, they are the epitome of great value burgundy.
Offered en primeur, landing autumn 2021.
View Jeannin-Naltet's wines below.
Prices are ex-VAT per case of 12 bottles, unless otherwise advised. DP = duty-paid ex-London. IB = under bond ex-London.
|Red||2019||Jeannin-Naltet - Mercurey Clos des Grands Voyens 1er cru||75cl||£220 per case of 12||IB|
A beautiful walled vineyard site (in the centre of the photo below, just in fron... Read more
A beautiful walled vineyard site (in the centre of the photo below, just in front of the woods). All 5 ha are owned by Jeannin-Naltet, making this a 'monopole'. Planted at a very high density, 10,000 vines per hectare. 25-30% new oak. Dark fruit character on the nose, even some cassis notes, with lovely purity and intensity. Complexity and depth apparent. Lovely richness in the mouth with dark, almost Cote de Nuits fruit flavours. Ripe tannins and balanced acidity. After the immediacy of the entry it (surprisingly) shows a good level of elegance and finesse on the finish. (Linear). RKL Close
|Red||2019||Jeannin-Naltet - Mercurey Les Nauges 1er cru||75cl||£235 per case of 12||IB|
Very different nose, with added vegetal and almost farmyard notes. Similar if no... Read more
Very different nose, with added vegetal and almost farmyard notes. Similar if not more richness and intensity.Much more structured than previous with stronger tannic frame. Denser texture. This will need longer. RKL Close