Burgundy 2022 En Primeur: Pouilly-Fuissé from J.A. Ferret
The 2022 vintage from benchmark Pouilly-Fuissé producer, Domaine J.A. Ferret, marks a turning point, with a new winemaker, Clément Robinet, and new cuvée names reflecting the elevation of several wines to premier cru-status.
Ferret pioneered single-vineyard wines in this region and, for us, the diversity of cuvées and their expression of their terroirs is what makes this estate a must-buy in 2022. We have not yet tasted the newly-named 'Autour de la Roche', formerly known as 'Sous Vergisson'; or the 'Clos St Jeanne' 1er Cru, formerly called 'Le Clos'. But based on on our tasting of 'Clos de Prouges' and 'Tournant de Pouilly', the Ferret wines have once again managed the trick of being rich and intense, whilst at the same time conveying balance and elegance.
As we have often said, this richness makes the wines excellent value compared to Meursault and Chassagne. We think Ferret's wines are set to become increasingly sought-after, so we recommend securing some of our limited availability.
Offered en primeur, landing in the UK in winter 2024.
Producer Profile
Domaine J.A Ferret, Pouilly-Fuissé
Domaine J.A. Ferret is in the heart of Fuissé itself, with the Ferret family making wine in the village since the 1760s and owning the domaine since 1840. After the Second World War Madame Jeanne Ferret took the decision to bottle the wines at the domaine, rather than selling them to negociants, a bold move at the time. She ran the Ferret for over half a century, well into her eighties, and was joined by her daughter Colette in the 1990s. In 2008 the family sold the estate to Maison Louis Jadot, but it continues to be run as a separate entity. New investment and a brilliant new winemaker signal the intention to raise the game, both at Ferret and for the appellation as a whole.
Audrey Braccini has been the start winemaker here for the last few years, making wines with the kind of mineral complexity usually found in the Côte d'Or, but with an added dimension of Maconnais sunshine lending richness to the wines. She has just left to make wine with her husband at the legendary Clos Rougeard in the Loire and from 2022 Clément Robinet has taken over, with an equally impressive background, coming from Heritiers Comte Lafon.
Ferret's 18 hectares of vines are spread across many of the best sites in the village. When we first visited, Audrey pointed out to us that Pouilly-Fuissé has more diversity of terroirs than any other appellation in Burgundy, but this is not reflected in the way that most of the production is bottled and labelled. There is a long tradition at Ferret of recognising the importance of specific sites and Madame Ferret’s even created her own unofficial classifications of 'Tetes de Cru' and 'Hors Cru Classe' which corresponded (in her eyes) to premier and grand cru. From the fresh, mineral style of "Les Perrieres" and "Tournant de Pouilly" (on limestone soils) to the richness of "Clos des Prouges", the wines exhibit their terroirs beautifully.
After many years of lobbying the authorities and after many complex soil studies, the INAO has authorised a premier cru classification in Pouilly-Fuissés, to appear on labels from the 2020 vintage, with a number of Ferret's crus included. Pouilly-Fuissés first grand cru may take a little longer...but, if and when it does come, it may well be one of Ferret's.
| WHITE | 2022 | Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly Fuissé "Le Clos de Jeanne" 1er cru | 75cl | £245 per case of 6 | Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly Fuissé "Le Clos de Jeanne" 1er cru 2022 / / 75cl £245 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Le Clos de Jeanne is a gently sloping single parcel that faces east. It is located between the house of Domaine Ferret and the village church. This parcel, the smallest among those that produce the Têtes de Cru and Hors Classe cuvées, covers 0.69 hectares right next to the domaine's buildings. Since 2020 vintage, and the 1ers Cru arrival in our appellation, this wine, situated in the heart of 1er Cru "Les Perrières", change his name in honor of Jeanne Ferret's mind. The plot is still the same. Half the vines just reached 35 years old, while the rest just turn their 50th birthday. These deep sandy loams are derived from sedimentary clays and don't contain any stony material. The bedrock features seams of limestone and marl-limestone. Fermentations and ageing take place in casks of which 25% of cask new, 75% of cask from 1 to 3 wines for 10 months. Then the ageing ends in stainless steel tank always with all their lees for another 9 months. Bottling at the end of March 2023." J.A. Ferret |
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| WHITE | 2022 | Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly Fuissé "Tournant de Pouilly" 1er cru | 75cl | £345 per case of 6 | Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly Fuissé "Tournant de Pouilly" 1er cru 2022 / / 75cl £345 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Tournant de Pouilly' more restraint on the nose, similar level of fruit intensity on the palate but lovely balance and more finesse." RKL------"Based in the northern part of Fuissé, just on the borders of the hamlet of Pouilly, the Tournant de Pouilly is a vineyard of one hectare in area, split between two parcels, planted on a gentle slope that faces north-east. This historic vineyard is a part of 1er Cru "Les Reisses". Planted by Jean-Alfred Ferret in 1995, 1963 and 1964, the vines from this parcel are, on average, a little bit older than 60 years old, one of the oldest vineyards owned by the Domaine. This deep clay loam soil contains lots of limestone, but little in the way of stones. It is derived from the pale loams of the Dogger. Fermentations and ageing take place in casks: 25% of new cask, 75% of cask from 1 to 3 wines for 10 months. The ageing continued in stainless steel tanks, always with all their lees for another 9 months. Bottled just like the Ménétrières, at the very last days of March 2022. Always a bit austere and shy at first glance, it is undoubtedly the most "chic" of the selections with its chalky touch and its fresh and persistent finish." J.A. Ferret Fermentations and ageing take place in casks of which 25% of cask new, 75% of cask from 1 to 3 wines for 10 months. Then the ageing ends in stainless steel tank always with all their lees for another 9 months. Bottling at the end of March 2023." J.A. Ferret |
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| WHITE | 2022 | Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly Fuissé "Tournant de Pouilly" 1er cru | 75cl | £345 per case of 6 | Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly Fuissé "Tournant de Pouilly" 1er cru 2022 / / 75cl £345 per case of 6 |
IB | |||||
Tasting Notes"Tournant de Pouilly' more restraint on the nose, similar level of fruit intensity on the palate but lovely balance and more finesse." RKL------"Based in the northern part of Fuissé, just on the borders of the hamlet of Pouilly, the Tournant de Pouilly is a vineyard of one hectare in area, split between two parcels, planted on a gentle slope that faces north-east. This historic vineyard is a part of 1er Cru "Les Reisses". Planted by Jean-Alfred Ferret in 1995, 1963 and 1964, the vines from this parcel are, on average, a little bit older than 60 years old, one of the oldest vineyards owned by the Domaine. This deep clay loam soil contains lots of limestone, but little in the way of stones. It is derived from the pale loams of the Dogger. Fermentations and ageing take place in casks: 25% of new cask, 75% of cask from 1 to 3 wines for 10 months. The ageing continued in stainless steel tanks, always with all their lees for another 9 months. Bottled just like the Ménétrières, at the very last days of March 2022. Always a bit austere and shy at first glance, it is undoubtedly the most "chic" of the selections with its chalky touch and its fresh and persistent finish." J.A. Ferret Fermentations and ageing take place in casks of which 25% of cask new, 75% of cask from 1 to 3 wines for 10 months. Then the ageing ends in stainless steel tank always with all their lees for another 9 months. Bottling at the end of March 2023." J.A. Ferret |
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| WHITE | 2022 | Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Clos de Prouges" Tete de Cru | 75cl | £245 per case of 6 | Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé "Clos de Prouges" Tete de Cru 2022 / / 75cl £245 per case of 6 |
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Tasting NotesSituated right in the centre of the village of Fuissé, this Clos is just over two "hectares" in size and is planted on a shallow slope that faces east. Although a small parcel of vines was planted in 2003, most of the vineyard dates back to 1956, and is therefore more than 60 years old, making it one of the oldest owned by the domaine. The soil is derived from limestone-rich marls deposited during the upper Bathonian. The 2022 Prouges is ripe with excellent concentration and richness on the nose; but on the palate, very welcome fresh acidity balancing the broad and richly layered fruit. RKL------"Slightly riper yet still fresh aromas offer up notes of exotic tea, spice, pear liqueur and slightly more prominent wood. As is usually the case, there is better volume to the more energetic medium weight flavors that exude evident minerality on the balanced, long and delicious finale. This could use better depth but the potential to develop it certainly appears to be present. 2028+. 90-93 points." Allen Meadows, Burghound |
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