Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur
At the end of April, we tasted several hundred wines from the 2023 vintage, visited thirty-five top châteaux and, most importantly, discussed the wines with dozens of châteaux owners and winemakers. As is invariably the case, by the time we came home our understanding of the vintage was completely different from our expectations.
2023 was the hottest autumn and the second-hottest year on record in France, but not in Bordeaux, with its Atlantic influences. Peak temperatures were lower than in '22 and rainfall was much higher. The widely reported issues with mildew were not evident in the wines we tasted. Top estates have the resources to combat the issue or to reduce yields where necessary.
We started our tastings in Pessac-Léognan, with Daniel Cathiard of Smith Haut Lafitte, still a bit giddy from hosting a visit by King Charles' during the harvest. The ripeness and aromatic intensity of the Cabernet Sauvignon here was echoed next at Haut-Bailly, where we met with Veronique Saunders and her Technical Director Gabriel Vialard.
Very quickly a theme emerged, of perfectly balanced, elegant wines with moderate alcohol (usually 13-13.5% on the left bank) and fresh fruit, wrapped up with firm, structured tannins, giving many of the wines a thoughtful, austere character. The word 'Atlantic' seems to sum up their style, especially when you factor in the pronounced mineral and saline notes we found at many estates.
In Pomerol and St-Emilion we met some beautiful wines at L'Evangile, Cheval Blanc, Figeac, Le Pin, Canon, Ausone and Le Tertre Rôtebeouf, with Vieux Château Certan producing another show-stopper. In some cases, the reduced Merlot crop had led to increased intensity, but more often the theme of elegance and freshness continued. L'Eglise Clinet was definitely a contender for wine of the vintage, a defining moment for winemaker Noemie Durantou.
Tasting in St-Estèphe and Pauillac, we found tremendous expressions of terroir, far more so than in the more homogenous 2022 vintage, with endless variations on crushed rock and mineral notes in St-Estèphe. Particular highlights were Phelan-Segur (with a superb lunch!), Cos d'Estournel and Calon-Segur. Montrose epitomized the direction of winemaking in the region, with fruit for the 2023 coming solely from vines on 'Terrace 4' gravel, the terroir that forms the heart of the estate (and many other top Médoc vineyards), producing a more linear, less broad-shouldered wine than in previous vintages. The sense of terroir was almost as evident in Pauillac, with highlights including Pontet-Canet, Pichon-Lalande, Clerc-Milon and Duhart-Milon.
The theme of terroir continued in Margaux, with the silkiest of tannins and wonderful elegance at Palmer and Margaux, both of which have produced potentially perfect wines. We also found numerous beautiful wines in St-Julien, although this was perhaps the most heterogeneous commune. Léoville Las Cases, already released with a huge 40% reduction on the '22, is one of the success stories, with the other Léovilles not far behind, and Beychevelle has surely made one of its best wines in years. As for Ducru-Beaucaillou, Xavier Borie has demonstrated his maverick tendencies once again, producing an inexplicably opulent wine which nevertheless has superb balance.
For us, 2023 is a very good vintage, but the best wines reach greatness. Quality is increasingly variable at Cru Bourgeois level and below, where estates may have lacked resources to respond to mildew. The key words from our notes are terroir, elegance, balance, moderate alcohol and 'Atlantic'. Precision and purity also feature heavily, but this is more a feature of modern winemaking using precision viticulture and vinification in small vats. Quality has improved immeasurably, even in just the last decade. Contemporary winemaking techniques also mean that the wines will be drinking earlier than in the past, but will also age for several decades.
With many wines releasing with 20-40% discounts making them at or even below 2019 prices, we think there is every reason to add them to your cellar.
It looks like the releases will be very early this year, with some big names due out in late April and many others in May.
The 2023 Growing Season in Bordeaux
Our summary of the growing season in 2023 is taken from an excellent report prepared by the Oenology Research Unit of the University of Bordeaux[i] for the UGC.
- Winter 2022/3 was cool, with low sunshine and adequate rainfall, but lower than in previous hot years like 2022 and ’20.
- The cool winter meant bud break was not too early, preventing frost damage.
- A humid spring led to widespread mildew, a major challenge, especially for Merlot; but the impact on both left and right banks varied, from major to negligible, causing a disparity in yields between different estates.
- May was sunny, warm, and dry, with good vine growth and a very even flowering. Estates not hit by mildew had the promise of very good yields.
- June to mid-August was slightly warmer than average but a bit dull; dry but with regular storms.
- Period to 15 August full of contrasts - slightly warmer than average, a bit dull, dry, but with regular storms
- From 16 August, a heatwave arrived. Unusually, the vines responded by stopping their vegetative growth (conserving moisture and nutrients) and put their energy into fruit ripening. Ripening conditions were excellent, with the exception of young vines on well-drained soils or grapes over-exposed to sunshine.
- Merlot harvest began in the first week of September. Heavy rain on 20 September - brought forward the Cabernet harvest at some estates. Other estates chose to wait until after the rain (which was less heavy than forecast).
- An "Indian summer" gave plenty of time to pick the last red grapes without fear of rot.
- The white wine harvest was excellent for both dry and sweet white wines. The cooler start to the summer produced excellent acidity levels. In Sauternes, alternating wet/dry spells were ideal for botrytis, which developed earlier than in previous vintages. Warm dry weather in October allowed for repeated ‘tries’ in the vineyard.
[i] Prof. Laurence Geny, Elodie Guittard, Dr. Valérie Lavigne and Prof. Axel Marchal Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences of Bordeaux University, Oenology Research Unit, ‘The 2023 vintage in Bordeaux’
| RED | 2023 | 50 cases | Château de Fieuzal | 75cl | £240 per case of 12 | Château de Fieuzal 2023 / 50 cases / 75cl £240 per case of 12 |
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| RED | 2023 | 20 cases | Château d'Issan | 75cl | £225 per case of 6 | Château d'Issan 2023 / 20 cases / 75cl £225 per case of 6 |
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Tasting NotesThe 2023 d’Issan was picked from September 18 to October 2. It was cropped at 30hL/ha, lower than usual due to mildew pressure and less rain in August, causing hydric stress during the summer heat wave, especially in the Merlot vines. It was harvested a little later than the other cuvées to benefit from the Indian summer, September 20, and matured in 50% new oak. It has a very pure bouquet with black cherries, cassis and blueberry fruit, though I feel that other recent vintages have shown a touch more complexity. The palate is well balanced and cohesive with fine and quite edgy tannins. There is an impressive symmetry to this d'Issan with a very poised and quite persistent finish. It improves with aeration and all the time, the aromatics seem to muster more energy (hence, I raised my score). One to watch. 91-93 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 D'Issan shows excellent potential, unfurling in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cassis, pen ink and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, velvety and enveloping palate that's rich, fleshy and charming, with lively acids, good depth at the core and a long, sapid finish. It's a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 93-95 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"First time not to have Malbec in the main Issan wine since the purchase of the neighbouring estate Pontac Lynch in 2020. 50% new oak, 32hl/h yield. Fine tannins, well balanced, inky and powerful but with oyster shell salinity. Chalky tanins with touch of En Primeur asterity, well constructed, full of cocoa bean, cassis, liqourice root, classical balance. 30hl/h yield. 95 points" janeanson.com------"The purity of the fruit is really wonderful here, with blackcurrants, orange peel and raspberries. Aromatic. Full body, chewy tannins and a juicy finish. But it remains linear and vivid. The quality of the tannins and the powdery texture are really alluring. Silky. And so precise. 70% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 2.5% cabernet franc and 2.5% petit verdot. 13.83% alcohol. 3.66 pH. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château Doisy Daene | 75cl | £372 per case of 12 | Château Doisy Daene 2023 / / 75cl £372 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"There’s a refined focus and beauty to this, with spice and honey character. Medium-bodied, sweet and poised. Flavorful at the end, in an elegant way, with density and tension. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com------"Pale gold with vibrant edging, starts with concentrated and intense clove spices, luscious apricot fruit, opening to show juicy, sculpted slivers of steel and lime juice. A return to form for this excellent Barsac wine after the succulent but unbalanced 2022. Great stuff from this legendary Dubourdieu property, although once again the yields are extremely low and the character is more concentrated than you find in vintages like 2021. Ageing starts with 10 months in oak barrels, followed by 9 months in stainless steel tank before bottling. 95 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Doisy-Daëne, a blend of 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, takes time to unfurl on the nose. Notes of lemon curd, dried peach and a touch of marmalade are all nicely defined, developing subtle pithy elements with aeration. The palate is just wonderful. Very harmonious with perfectly judged acidity, it’s extremely pure with a tensile finish. This is Barsac in full flight. It will be outstanding once bottled. Bravo! 95-97 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 20 cases | Château Ducru Beaucaillou | 75cl | £744 per case of 6 | Château Ducru Beaucaillou 2023 / 20 cases / 75cl £744 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in 100% new oak for a planned 18 months, has a less forceful bouquet than the 2022 last year and, consequently, shows more refinement and poise. The scents don't come barging out of the blocks, but they creep up on you. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh entry. Showing moderate depth, it’s quite linear in style and grippy. A faint touch of bell pepper emerges on the classically styled finish that reminds me of some of the old vintages of Ducru-Beaucaillou. This is the strictest vintage I have encountered in some time. 94-96 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Glass-staining violet. A serious Ducru, delivered with precision and balance, with plenty of concentration and a slow, long build, layered, fine and sappy tannins. Proof again that this is a great Cabernet year in this corner of Bordeaux, less velvet concentration than the 2022 Ducru perhaps, but more finesse and packed full of nuance, and a saline mouthwatering finish. 41hl/h yield, 100% new oak, with long seasoning of up to five years, nine different coopers. 96 points" janeanson.com------"This has aromas of blackberries and blackcurrant, as well as graphite and flint. Some gunpowder. It’s full-bodied with extremely refined tannins, a creamy character and al-dente fruit at the finish. Crunchy, succulent and linear. Mineral edge to it, like licking a stone. Energetic. 83% cabernet sauvignon and 17% merlot. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 10 cases | Château Durfort Vivens | 75cl | £478 per case of 12 | Château Durfort Vivens 2023 / 10 cases / 75cl £478 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Durfort-Vivens is a very pretty, understated wine. In 2023, Durfort is marked by a brighter profile than usual: red fruit, blood orange and flowers. Medium in body and persistent, with good energy and very fine balance, the 2023 is promising. Even though it’s showing a touch of oak at this stage, this layered and sumptuous offering is showing well. Drink 2031-2053. 92-95 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Durfort Vivens is once again dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, which represents 92% of the blend. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of minty cassis, plums and berries mingled with hints of pencil shavings and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with good concentration, sweet tannins and a long, penetrating finish. With a pH of 3.66 and 13.7% alcohol, it's a resounding success. 94-95 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"Wonderfully fragrant aromatics that climb through the palate, this has the juice and power that 2023 does so well in the right hads, majoring on squid ink and cassis, with clear expansion through the palate, liqourice, sage, saffron, pomegrante, orange zest and salt-scrape. Harvest September 11 to October 4, 35hl/h yield, 3.66ph, 66% new oak, 33% amphoras for ageing. Right up there with the best of Margaux. 95 points" janeanson.com------"This has very fresh, lively and almost al-dente fruit. It’s mouthwatering and juicy. Medium-to full-bodied, refined and seamless. Long, with a firm backbone of tannins that are very fine and polished. Crunchy and structured. Chewy at the end. 92% cabernet sauvignon and 8% merlot. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château d'Yquem | 75cl | £780 per case of 3 | Château d'Yquem 2023 / / 75cl £780 per case of 3 |
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Tasting Notes"Perfect aromas carry through to every milliliter of this wine, showing intense orange peel, honey, butterscotch, saffron, smoke and peat, with hints of coffee and dried apples. Full-bodied but weightless and silky, with an excellent balance of fruit, sweetness and spices. Some peanut brittle, dried oranges and lemons at the end. I can’t get over how wonderful this is now, but it can age forever. 154 g/L residual sugar. Drink or hold. 100 points." Jamessuckling.com------"Power, freshness, depth, after the extremes of 2021 and 2022, this walks the line between the two, exceptional, mandarin, quince, mirabelle plums, white truffle, fresh fruit and confit fruit, a vibration of slate and steel, opulent but slices closed on the finish. The botrytis came early and quickly in 2023. Francis Mayeur in final vintage as consultant, after many years as inhouse winemaking team, Lorenzo Pasquini director. 154g/l residual sugar, 3.85ph, harvest September 14 to October 11. 2026-2050. 100 points." Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux, Feb '26------"With 153 grams per liter of residual sugar—placing it among the 10 most concentrated vintages in the château’s history—the 2023 d'Yquem ranks among the finest wines bottled here under Lorenzo Pasquini’s direction. It unfurls from the glass with a complex, vibrant and remarkably pure bouquet of pineapple, guava, mango, confit citrus, beeswax and spices. Full-bodied, dense and concentrated, it combines formidable depth with perfectly judged control, built around a fleshy core of fruit, framed by lively acidity and a crystalline texture and culminating in an endless, refined and ethereal finish. Yquem’s natural power is here masterfully harnessed by the vintage’s freshness and tension, revealing an aesthetic of precision and vibrancy encountered only in the estate’s greatest years—made all the more remarkable by the fact that the château now achieves even higher levels of concentration than a decade ago, without any perceptible increase in sweetness on the palate. 2026-076. 100 points." (YC) Wine Advocate, Mar '26 |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château d'Yquem | Half bottle | £780 per case of 6 | Château d'Yquem 2023 / / Half bottle £780 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Perfect aromas carry through to every milliliter of this wine, showing intense orange peel, honey, butterscotch, saffron, smoke and peat, with hints of coffee and dried apples. Full-bodied but weightless and silky, with an excellent balance of fruit, sweetness and spices. Some peanut brittle, dried oranges and lemons at the end. I can’t get over how wonderful this is now, but it can age forever. 154 g/L residual sugar. Drink or hold. 100 points." Jamessuckling.com------"Power, freshness, depth, after the extremes of 2021 and 2022, this walks the line between the two, exceptional, mandarin, quince, mirabelle plums, white truffle, fresh fruit and confit fruit, a vibration of slate and steel, opulent but slices closed on the finish. The botrytis came early and quickly in 2023. Francis Mayeur in final vintage as consultant, after many years as inhouse winemaking team, Lorenzo Pasquini director. 154g/l residual sugar, 3.85ph, harvest September 14 to October 11. 2026-2050. 100 points." Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux, Feb '26------"With 153 grams per liter of residual sugar—placing it among the 10 most concentrated vintages in the château’s history—the 2023 d'Yquem ranks among the finest wines bottled here under Lorenzo Pasquini’s direction. It unfurls from the glass with a complex, vibrant and remarkably pure bouquet of pineapple, guava, mango, confit citrus, beeswax and spices. Full-bodied, dense and concentrated, it combines formidable depth with perfectly judged control, built around a fleshy core of fruit, framed by lively acidity and a crystalline texture and culminating in an endless, refined and ethereal finish. Yquem’s natural power is here masterfully harnessed by the vintage’s freshness and tension, revealing an aesthetic of precision and vibrancy encountered only in the estate’s greatest years—made all the more remarkable by the fact that the château now achieves even higher levels of concentration than a decade ago, without any perceptible increase in sweetness on the palate. 2026-076. 100 points." (YC) Wine Advocate, Mar '26 |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château d'Yquem | 75cl | £1,560 per case of 6 | Château d'Yquem 2023 / / 75cl £1,560 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Perfect aromas carry through to every milliliter of this wine, showing intense orange peel, honey, butterscotch, saffron, smoke and peat, with hints of coffee and dried apples. Full-bodied but weightless and silky, with an excellent balance of fruit, sweetness and spices. Some peanut brittle, dried oranges and lemons at the end. I can’t get over how wonderful this is now, but it can age forever. 154 g/L residual sugar. Drink or hold. 100 points." Jamessuckling.com------"Power, freshness, depth, after the extremes of 2021 and 2022, this walks the line between the two, exceptional, mandarin, quince, mirabelle plums, white truffle, fresh fruit and confit fruit, a vibration of slate and steel, opulent but slices closed on the finish. The botrytis came early and quickly in 2023. Francis Mayeur in final vintage as consultant, after many years as inhouse winemaking team, Lorenzo Pasquini director. 154g/l residual sugar, 3.85ph, harvest September 14 to October 11. 2026-2050. 100 points." Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux, Feb '26------"With 153 grams per liter of residual sugar—placing it among the 10 most concentrated vintages in the château’s history—the 2023 d'Yquem ranks among the finest wines bottled here under Lorenzo Pasquini’s direction. It unfurls from the glass with a complex, vibrant and remarkably pure bouquet of pineapple, guava, mango, confit citrus, beeswax and spices. Full-bodied, dense and concentrated, it combines formidable depth with perfectly judged control, built around a fleshy core of fruit, framed by lively acidity and a crystalline texture and culminating in an endless, refined and ethereal finish. Yquem’s natural power is here masterfully harnessed by the vintage’s freshness and tension, revealing an aesthetic of precision and vibrancy encountered only in the estate’s greatest years—made all the more remarkable by the fact that the château now achieves even higher levels of concentration than a decade ago, without any perceptible increase in sweetness on the palate. 2026-076. 100 points." (YC) Wine Advocate, Mar '26 |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château d'Yquem - Y' d'Yquem | 75cl | £720 per case of 6 | Château d'Yquem Y' d'Yquem 2023 / / 75cl £720 per case of 6 |
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| RED | 2023 | 10 cases | Château Figeac | 75cl | £894 per case of 6 | Château Figeac 2023 / 10 cases / 75cl £894 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Château Figeac is Merlot-dominated but includes 32% Cabernet Franc and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the élevage all in new French oak. Classic Figeac purple fruits, tobacco, leafy herbs, violets, and graphite all emerge on the nose, and it hits the palate with medium to full body, a remarkable sense of purity and precision, fine-grained tannins, and a gorgeous finish. Hitting 13.5% alcohol and a pH of 3.68, it's a beautiful wine in the vintage that shows the absolute class of this château today. 94-97 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"The 2023 Figeac is gorgeous. Seamless and vibrant, with captivating elegance, this is an absolute beauty. What I admire most is its exceptional balance. Everything is in the right place. Time in the glass brings out hints of gravel, dried herbs, licorice, tobacco and cedar that add dimension. Although it is early, Figeac is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. 95-98 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"A brilliant classic in the making, the 2023 Figeac unwinds in the glass with aromas of cassis and mulberry mingled with notions of iris, cigar wrapper, pencil shavings, burning embers and spices. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with an enveloping core of fruit that's framed by powdery tannins and lively acids, concluding with a broad, atypically mineral finish. It's a blend of 41% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon that attained 13.5% alcohol. 96-98 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"A blend of 41% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc, and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2023 Figeac has a pH of 3.68 and it is deep garnet-purple in color. It prances out of the glass with out-going scents of black raspberries and fresh blackcurrants, opening out to reveal an undercurrent of pencil shavings, rose bud tea, iron ore, and wood smoke. The medium-bodied palate delivers a rock-solid structure of firm, grainy tannins and beautiful tension supporting the taut, muscular black fruits, finishing with a long-lingering mineral firework display. 96-98 points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent------"he 2023 Figeac was cropped at 45hL/ha from September 6 until October 5, one of the longest harvest periods ever. It matured in 100% new oak, as usual. My samples included the 5% vin de presse. This has a very perfumed bouquet: red fruit rather than black, iris flower rather than violet, light sous-bois and tobacco scents deriving from the Cabernets. The palate is medium-bodied, and the Cabernets really "sing" on the entry. Black fruit mixes with graphite and light tobacco notes, surging with fresh acidity and real brightness, or what the French call éclat. There’s gentle grip here—classic Figeac from start to finish, with a subtle marine influence toward the close. This will be a wonderful Saint-Émilion that ranks amongst the best wines of the vintage. Chapeau! 96-98 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The density and finesse to this is terrific, offering blackberry, dark chocolate, walnut and hazelnut, as well as currant and sandalwood. Orange peel, too. Full-bodied and compact with a superb core of thick, velvet-textured tannins and a juicy finish. Extremely long. 41% merlot, 32% cabernet franc and 27% cabernet sauvignon. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com------"Fragrant floral aromatics straight off the bat, peony and violet, and a vibrant juiciness that travels through the palate. Savoury dark fruit character, with flint and textural interest, full of Figeac finesse. 130th vintage of the Manoncourt family at Figeac, and the first vintage where they knew they were Premier Grand Cru Classé A from the start of the season, as it was announced in September 2022. 130mm of rain lower than average over the growing season here, allowing a long slow harvest from September 6 to October 5, 45hl/h yield. 98 points" janeanson.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 10 cases | Château Gloria | 75cl | £275 per case of 12 | Château Gloria 2023 / 10 cases / 75cl £275 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Gloria presents a deep purple hue. It has a succinct bouquet with black cherries, red plum and pronounced floral aromas that emanate from the Petit Verdot. The palate is medium-bodied with bright blackberry and raspberry fruit, quite a minerally Gloria with a more linear, stricter finish than the 2022, as you would expect. There’s also fine salinity here. This is a classy Gloria that just misses the panache of recent vintages (and of the 2023 Saint-Pierre). 90-92 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Love this inky depths of the plummy fruits and deep rich chcolate notes, great quality with depths and balance. Last year of organic conversion. 93 points" janeanson.com------"Blackberries and blueberries with stone and sandalwood undertones. It’s medium- to full-bodied with integrated tannins that are polished and refined. Long finish. Solid and rather muscular. Could move up a notch. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com------"Cassis, violets, spicy wood, espresso, and a kiss of graphite all emerge from the 2023 Château Gloria, an incredibly pure, medium to full-bodied, ripe, balanced Saint-Julien. It shows the pure, elegant style of the vintage, has ripe tannins, plenty of mid-palate depth, and a great finish. This château hasn't put a foot wrong in some time, and they certainly did well in 2023. 92-94 points" Jebdunnuck.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château Guiraud | 75cl | £480 per case of 12 | Château Guiraud 2023 / / 75cl £480 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Guiraud, now made by former Yquem winemaker Sandrine Garbay, has a rather reticent nose at first, opening with orange pith and pear aromas. It just needs a bit more intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with a tangy opening. It’s a little spicier than its peers—marmalade and stem ginger, with more peachiness toward the finish. It feels harmonious and poised, but I would wait until the aromatics open, so give it four to five years after bottling. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Vivid gold in colour, laced with white peach juice, grilled pear, stone fruits, lime juice, opulent but with sculpted lift and zest, this extends outwards and upwards through the palate, capturing the pleasure of 2023 sweet wines in Bordeaux. Has spice and character, gorgeously expressive even now, and will age with ease. Sandrine Garbay, long time winemaker of Yquem, is director at this 128ha estate, that has been farmed organically since 2011. Harvest began on September 27 and continued through to October 13. 96 points" janeanson.com------"You really see the class and botrytis character here with clarity and focus. Notes of spice, mushroom powder, subtle apricot and honey. It’s medium-bodied, fresh and bright with nice sweetness at the end. A modern and precise Sauternes. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 5 cases | Château Haut Brion | 75cl | £1,890 per case of 6 | Château Haut Brion 2023 / 5 cases / 75cl £1,890 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Haut-Brion exhibits a more Cabernet-inflected personality than the richer 2022, offering up a deep but youthfully reserved bouquet of dark wild berries, licorice, smoke and pencil lead mingled with notions of cigar wrapper, nicely integrated new oak and spices. Full-bodied, deep and velvety, it’s layered and concentrated, with a deep core of fruit structured around abundant but velvety tannins, concluding with a long, controlled finish. Somewhat reminiscent of the estate's successful 2006, it's a blend of 52.3% Merlot, 38.6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9.1% Cabernet Franc. 95-97 points" Yohan Castaing, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Haut-Brion was picked at the same time as the La Mission Haut-Brion, albeit the secateurs sheathed one day later, on October 6. The nose is less immediate than the La Mission and the fruit is a little darker: blackcurrant, juniper, hints of black olive and a light cedar scent. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip and tension. This has superb energy, presenting a crescendo of flavors toward a complex and persistent finish that lingers in the mouth. There is real pedigree to this First Growth, and it will certainly give 30 to 40 years of drinking pleasure. 96-98 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"This is tight, yet so upright and proper, with a vertical line of fine tannin that runs true and deep. It’s medium- to full-bodied with an exquisite texture and a long, structured finish. 52.3% merlot, 38.6% cabernet sauvignon and 9.1% cabernet franc. 98-99 points" jamessuckling.com------"This is an exceptional Haut-Brion, offering juice and elegant balance alongside classically structured layers, generous but restrained, sense of architecture and building blocks of a truly great Left Bank wine. Rippling with sinewy muscles, juicy and controlled, packed with cocoa bean, espresso, liouqorice root, but none of these flavours dominate, knitted together, with a vertical lift. 100% new oak, Jean-Philippe Delmas director, Jean-Philippe Masclef technical director, no outside consultant. 98-100 points" janeanson.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 30 cases | Château La Gaffeliere | 75cl | £270 per case of 6 | Château La Gaffeliere 2023 / 30 cases / 75cl £270 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Love the depth and the vibrant fruit character here, and the vivid reflections to the colour. Chalky, fresh, extremely vibrant, real mineral pumice stone textire, and a clear reminder of its limestone soils. Aged in barrels and large oak casks. Tasted twice. Now withdrawn from the St Emilion classification. Alexandre de Malet-Roquefort owner. 94 points" janeanson.com------"The center-palate reflects excellent terroir, with blackberry, black-olive and walnut aromas and flavors. Tight centerpalate with firm but creamy tannins and a flavorful, classy finish. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com------"The 2023 La Gaffelière is very pure and floral on the nose, with black cherries intermingling with violet and iris flower scents. The new oak is neatly integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and layers of lightly spiced black fruit. Cedar and graphite furnish the poised but persistent finish. This is another in a succession of impressive wines from this estate that just oozes sensuality. Superb. 94-96 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"One of the stars of the vintage, the 2023 Château La Gaffelière checks in as 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc resting in 50% new barrels. Cassis, smoked black fruits, graphite, and crushed stone all define the aromatics, and it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a pure, layered, concentrated mouthfeel, plenty of tannins, and a great finish. It has a lot of oak but more than enough fruit and texture. It's serious stuff. 94-97 points" Jebdunnuck.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 10 cases | Château La Mission Haut Brion | 75cl | £1,110 per case of 6 | Château La Mission Haut Brion 2023 / 10 cases / 75cl £1,110 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 La Mission Haut-Brion was picked between September 5 until October 5, a relatively long picking, at 50hL/ha. It has a wonderful bouquet with brightness and verve: very well-defined red and black fruit, a little floral in style, maybe not as rambunctious as recent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins. A perfect line of acidity counterbalances the creamy texture, turning quite plush toward the finish, but it is amazingly well-focused. This is a generous La Mission Haut-Brion that will probably drink earlier than say, the 2022, as winemaker Jean-Philippe Delmas agreed. It’s very fine and very delicious, but I would not place it within the canon of top vintages. 93-95 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 La Mission Haut-Brion unwinds in the glass to reveal aromas of ripe red fruits, dark wild berries, spring flowers, burning embers and lilac. Medium to full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it’s layered and textural with a dense core of fruit underpinned by youthfully firm structuring tannins. This blend of 52.7% Merlot, 29.6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17.7% Cabernet Franc its likely to become fleshier and more enveloping with barrel maturation. 94-96 points" Yohan Castaing, RobertParker.com------"Red roses, powdery chalky tannins, grip and lift, this is savoury, concentrated, full of lift and vibrancy, with layers of lush ripe red and black fruits, with the inky stamp of the Cabernet in the vintage, and the caressing tannins that La Mission does so well. Harvest started early and finished late, through to October 5. 96 points" janeanson.com------"The classy mouth-feel and length to this is really gorgeous, and it seduces you with its texture of fine silk and finesse. Lasts for a long, long time. Medium body with medium, creamy and round tannins and a layered, textured finish. Shows blackcurrants, lead pencil and crushed stone at the end. 52.7% merlot, 29.6% cabernet sauvignon and 17.7% cabernet franc. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com------"One of the finest wines in the vintage, the 2023 Château La Mission Haut-Brion is based on 52.7% Merlot, 29.6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc. It's one hell of a gorgeous wine offering a massive nose of black raspberries, graphite, liquid flowers, scorched earth, and chocolate-like aromas and flavors. It delivers remarkable purity, full-bodied richness, no hard edges, and fine-grained, sweet tannins. The overall balance paired with opulence here is something to behold, and it’s incredible to find this level of quality in the vintage. 96-100 points" Jebdunnuck.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 5 cases | Château La Petite Eglise | 75cl | £204 per case of 6 | Château La Petite Eglise 2023 / 5 cases / 75cl £204 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 La Petite Eglise comes from two plots near the village of Pomerol, augmented by the youngest vines in front of the château. It comprises 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, picked from September 9 to 14, the Franc on the last day. Matured in 82% new oak, this is initially quite backward on the nose, demanding a bit of aeration in the glass. Quite pure and floral, it only reluctantly opens. The palate is medium-bodied and very pure, with fine-boned tannins. The new oak is vocal toward the finish, lending a smooth veneer that will be subsumed with time in bottle. This is very fine, but allow it a few years in bottle. 90-92 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"As usual, the 2023 La Petite Eglise is a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc that checks in at 14.4% alcohol. Wafting from the glass with aromas of plums and cherries mingled with notes of dark chocolate and truffle, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and succulent, with a rich core of fruit, sweet tannins and good depth at the core, concluding with a broad, oak-inflected finish. 91-93 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"So delicious, a seriously impressive wine combining juicy spiced plum and damson fruits, bitter black chocolate and espresso, serious and reserved, with the creamy texture of Pomerol fruits emerging after a few minutes in the glass. Noëmie Durantou winemaker. Harvest September 1 to 18. 42hl/h yield. 93 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 La Petite Eglise is a serious, deep wine. It is one of the few second wines in Bordeaux that needs some time in bottle to be at its best. Dark-toned fruit, graphite, leather, menthol, spice and incense lend this large-scaled Pomerol a ton of distinction. A dollop of Franc (10%) adds tension and vibrancy. 92-94 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"A firm and racy red with blackberry, black olive, and orange peel. Just a hint of salt. Medium to full body. Tight center-palate with lovely tannins and a savory finish. Fresh and balanced at the end. Crunchy. Open. 90% merlot and 10% cabernet franc. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 1 case | Château Lafite | 75cl | £2,150 per case of 6 | Château Lafite 2023 / 1 case / 75cl £2,150 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Lafite-Rothschild was picked September 7 to 29 at 45hL/ha and matured in 90% new oak. This is more discrete on the nose—one of the tropes of this First Growth—even when compared to the more immediate Carruades. This takes time to unfurl in the glass, slowly revealing black fruit laced with pencil box and just a touch of pressed violet. There's wonderful precision here. The palate is medium-bodied with a cashmere texture, very pure (again) with a judicious dab of cracked black pepper. The finish is very sleek, thanks to its almost filigree tannins, seeming to glide across the palate. It's not a grippy or sinewy Pauillac, and on reflection, it is technically perfect. Yet, I find myself searching for a bit more...soul. Perhaps a few rough edges would captivate the emotions. This is a delicious Lafite- Rothschild no doubt, but I want it to move me once in bottle. Maybe it will. 2030-2070. 95-97 points." Neal Martin, Vinous, Apr '24------"The 2023 Lafite•Rothschild races out of the glass with notable textural intensity. Explosive and deep, with striking balance, Lafite dazzles in this vintage. The 2023 is a somber, virile Lafite endowed with remarkable depth and tons of sheer character. Plum, blackberry, gravel, pencil shavings, graphite, mocha and lavender build into the intense, palate- staining finish. The blend is 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. 2023-2073. 95-97 points." Antonio Galloni, Vinous, Apr '24------"The purity of cabernet sauvignon is so evident here. It mesmerizes you with aromas of black and red currants, cedar, tobacco and bark. It's full-bodied yet there's very impressive weightlessness and agility, as well as subtlety and focus. Some iron and terra-cotta. Cedar and sandalwood undertones. Juicy and plummy at the end. 12.9% alcohol. 3.75 pH. A blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot. 97-98 points." James Suckling, Apr '24------"The finest of the first growths this year appears to be the 2023 Lafite Rothschild, a terrific effort that unwinds in the glass with deep and incipiently complex aromas of cassis, pencil shavings, lilac and violets mingled with hints of cigar wrapper and mint. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's vibrant and refined, with a deep core of fruit, plenty of sweet structuring tannin and a compelling marriage between energy and plenitude. It's a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot that reminds me of 2019's tannins combined with 2016's unimpeachable classicism. 97-99 points." (WK) The Wine Advocate, Apr '24-----"This hits you right off the first nose, driven by slate and crushed rocks, setting the tone and the architecture, guiding the fruit through the palate. Cassis, bilberry, tobacco leaf, graphite, crushed mint, finessed and sculpted, this is a gorgeous Lafite, with fine tannins and the squid ink character that seems to be present in all of this stable of wines except Moulin de Duhart. Hidden power, where nothing is too much and yet everything is concentrated, once again proving that the terroir at this particular spot has its own personality that stands out every year. High Cabernet as ever, combined with around 15% press wine. Not the concentration of 2022, but in many ways showcasing the essence of Lafite more squarely, and this will delight anyone lucky enough to own it in future years. 45hl/h yield, highest since 2015, harvest September 7 to 29. 100% new oak. New cellar underway, due for completion in 2027. I am giving it 10 years to begin entering its opening window, a little less than usual but it will make no difference to how long you can cellar it. 98-100 points." Jane Anson, Apr '24 |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Lafite - Carruades de Lafite | 75cl | £930 per case of 6 | Château Lafite Carruades de Lafite 2023 / / 75cl £930 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, the 2023 Carruades de Lafite is lovely, bursting with aromas of minty blackberries, cassis and cigar box, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered palate that's creamy and textural, its generous core of fruit largely concealing its powdery structuring tannins, concluding with a long, resonant finish. 91-93 points." (WK) The Wine Advocate------"The 2023 Carruades de Lafite is a very pretty, sensual wine that very much captures the personality of the Grand Vin, naturally in a more approachable style. The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, with no Franc or Petit Verdot. I have to say, there is something very direct about the QOQ3—something frank that is really evident. I admire its purity. Succulent red plum, spice, cedar, tobacco and a lifting touch of white pepper open first, while beautifully persistent saline undertones extend the finish. 2027-2047. 92-94 points." Neal Martin, Vinous, Apr '24------"Medium intensity ruby, fairly austere right now, structured, with the same mint leaf and ink quality as Lafite. The sweet brambled black fruits only come in through the mid palate, this is well paced, unrolls slowly, a serious and concentrated Carruades that has its eye on the future. 12% pres wine, harvest September 7 to 29, unusually only using Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. 94 points." Jane Anson, Apr '24------"A savory and juicy Carruades with softness and notes of ripe berry, cedar and dried tobacco. Like Lafite from the 1980s but more precise. Round and pretty. It really grows on the finish with such sweetness of fruit and length. Pointed, fine tannins at the end. Very long. A blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 10 cases | Château Langoa Barton | 75cl | £354 per case of 12 | Château Langoa Barton 2023 / 10 cases / 75cl £354 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Langoa Barton was picked from September 12 until October 2 at around 50hL/ha, with some "late" saignée for half the vat–when it has some “serious color,” according to Damien Barton. Two vats were chaptalized out of a total of 42, the highest at 15%, yielding an average alcohol of 13%. Matured in 60% new oak, it has a very perfumed bouquet with black plum, boysenberry and a touch of mint. This is notably forward and unabashed. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, a sorbet-fresh Langoa with a bright, almost pastille-like finish that lingers in the mouth. Very seductive and vivacious, I appreciate the nascent energy here. 91-93 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Solid tannins, gorgeous iris and violet reflections, blueberry and cassis fruits, shot through with cigar box, this is a fairly old school Langoa in the best possibly way, juicy, sapppy, nuanced, with chalky tannins that lift through the palate. 94 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Langoa Barton is a very accomplished wine, the family's new winery having permitted more precise, parcel-by-parcel winemaking as well as gentler handling of the fruit to deliver a wine with all this estate's customary intensity of flavor but more polish and refinement. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cassis and plums mingled with hints of pencil shavings and dried rose petals, it's medium to full-bodied, with an inky core of fruit, vibrant acids and plenty of suave structuring tannin. This classic blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc is sure to number among the intelligent purchases of the en primeur campaign. 93-95 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"There’s depth of fruit here with blackberries, blackcurrants and hints of cedar and tobacco. The tannins are very solid and polished with juiciness and depth. Pristine. Bright acidity. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot and 3% cabernet franc. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 1 case | Château Le Tertre Roteboeuf | 75cl | £770 per case of 6 | Château Le Tertre Roteboeuf 2023 / 1 case / 75cl £770 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Tertre-Rôteboeuf is a potent, backward wine. Dark-toned fruit and huge, sweeping tannins make a strong first impression. The 2023 is a somber, brooding Tertre-Rôteboeuf that will need at least a few years to come into its own. It's difficult to say whether the searing tannins will ever fully soften; I would say that is a 50/50 proposition at this stage. En primeur at Tertre-Rôteboeuf is more akin to Burgundy than Bordeaux; wines are tasted straight from barrel rather than from prepared samples, so there is always a bit of variability. I observed this in the two barrels I tasted. 2030-2043 91-94 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Tertre Rôteboeuf was picked from September 26 with a normal duration of picking. It has a typical bouquet for this Saint-Émilion that plays by its own rules: black cherries, dark chocolate, a touch of melted tar and licorice, well-defined and actually gaining precision as it opens in the glass. The palate is very smooth and a little savory in style, displaying hints of meat juices and white pepper, almost garrigue-like toward the finish. There's an appealing dash of black pepper on the aftertaste that seems to linger temptingly. Those who love this Chateau will love the 2023. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Le Tertre Roteboeuf offers up aromas of crème de cassis, blueberry liqueur, kirsch, espresso roast and creamy new oak, followed by a full-bodied, rich and layered palate that's sweet, dense and concentrated, somewhat reminiscent of François Mitjaville's 2011. When I tasted it, the wine had only been in barrel for a matter of weeks, as the 2023 took an unusually long time to ferment to dryness. 92-96 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The juice, the salinity, the plump fruits and the pleasure bursting out of this glass are off the scale. Expect waves of fleshy red cherry, raspberry, squid ink, tar and smoked grilled caramel, tannins full of sinew. All picked in one day, Henri Mitjavile winemaker alongside his father François Mitjavile. 100% new oak for ageing. 97 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Tertre Roteboeuf is deep garnet-purple in color. It erupts from the glass with powerful notes of plum preserves, juicy ripe blackberries, and licorice leading to suggestions of charcoal, black olives, cumin seed, lavender oil, and crushed rocks with a waft of iron ore. The full-bodied palate vibrates with energetic black fruits and savory accents, supported by beautifully velvety tannins and wonderful tension, finishing long and minerally. This is a stunning expression of the vintage! 96-98 points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent |
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