Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur
At the end of April, we tasted several hundred wines from the 2023 vintage, visited thirty-five top châteaux and, most importantly, discussed the wines with dozens of châteaux owners and winemakers. As is invariably the case, by the time we came home our understanding of the vintage was completely different from our expectations.
2023 was the hottest autumn and the second-hottest year on record in France, but not in Bordeaux, with its Atlantic influences. Peak temperatures were lower than in '22 and rainfall was much higher. The widely reported issues with mildew were not evident in the wines we tasted. Top estates have the resources to combat the issue or to reduce yields where necessary.
We started our tastings in Pessac-Léognan, with Daniel Cathiard of Smith Haut Lafitte, still a bit giddy from hosting a visit by King Charles' during the harvest. The ripeness and aromatic intensity of the Cabernet Sauvignon here was echoed next at Haut-Bailly, where we met with Veronique Saunders and her Technical Director Gabriel Vialard.
Very quickly a theme emerged, of perfectly balanced, elegant wines with moderate alcohol (usually 13-13.5% on the left bank) and fresh fruit, wrapped up with firm, structured tannins, giving many of the wines a thoughtful, austere character. The word 'Atlantic' seems to sum up their style, especially when you factor in the pronounced mineral and saline notes we found at many estates.
In Pomerol and St-Emilion we met some beautiful wines at L'Evangile, Cheval Blanc, Figeac, Le Pin, Canon, Ausone and Le Tertre Rôtebeouf, with Vieux Château Certan producing another show-stopper. In some cases, the reduced Merlot crop had led to increased intensity, but more often the theme of elegance and freshness continued. L'Eglise Clinet was definitely a contender for wine of the vintage, a defining moment for winemaker Noemie Durantou.
Tasting in St-Estèphe and Pauillac, we found tremendous expressions of terroir, far more so than in the more homogenous 2022 vintage, with endless variations on crushed rock and mineral notes in St-Estèphe. Particular highlights were Phelan-Segur (with a superb lunch!), Cos d'Estournel and Calon-Segur. Montrose epitomized the direction of winemaking in the region, with fruit for the 2023 coming solely from vines on 'Terrace 4' gravel, the terroir that forms the heart of the estate (and many other top Médoc vineyards), producing a more linear, less broad-shouldered wine than in previous vintages. The sense of terroir was almost as evident in Pauillac, with highlights including Pontet-Canet, Pichon-Lalande, Clerc-Milon and Duhart-Milon.
The theme of terroir continued in Margaux, with the silkiest of tannins and wonderful elegance at Palmer and Margaux, both of which have produced potentially perfect wines. We also found numerous beautiful wines in St-Julien, although this was perhaps the most heterogeneous commune. Léoville Las Cases, already released with a huge 40% reduction on the '22, is one of the success stories, with the other Léovilles not far behind, and Beychevelle has surely made one of its best wines in years. As for Ducru-Beaucaillou, Xavier Borie has demonstrated his maverick tendencies once again, producing an inexplicably opulent wine which nevertheless has superb balance.
For us, 2023 is a very good vintage, but the best wines reach greatness. Quality is increasingly variable at Cru Bourgeois level and below, where estates may have lacked resources to respond to mildew. The key words from our notes are terroir, elegance, balance, moderate alcohol and 'Atlantic'. Precision and purity also feature heavily, but this is more a feature of modern winemaking using precision viticulture and vinification in small vats. Quality has improved immeasurably, even in just the last decade. Contemporary winemaking techniques also mean that the wines will be drinking earlier than in the past, but will also age for several decades.
With many wines releasing with 20-40% discounts making them at or even below 2019 prices, we think there is every reason to add them to your cellar.
It looks like the releases will be very early this year, with some big names due out in late April and many others in May.
The 2023 Growing Season in Bordeaux
Our summary of the growing season in 2023 is taken from an excellent report prepared by the Oenology Research Unit of the University of Bordeaux[i] for the UGC.
- Winter 2022/3 was cool, with low sunshine and adequate rainfall, but lower than in previous hot years like 2022 and ’20.
- The cool winter meant bud break was not too early, preventing frost damage.
- A humid spring led to widespread mildew, a major challenge, especially for Merlot; but the impact on both left and right banks varied, from major to negligible, causing a disparity in yields between different estates.
- May was sunny, warm, and dry, with good vine growth and a very even flowering. Estates not hit by mildew had the promise of very good yields.
- June to mid-August was slightly warmer than average but a bit dull; dry but with regular storms.
- Period to 15 August full of contrasts - slightly warmer than average, a bit dull, dry, but with regular storms
- From 16 August, a heatwave arrived. Unusually, the vines responded by stopping their vegetative growth (conserving moisture and nutrients) and put their energy into fruit ripening. Ripening conditions were excellent, with the exception of young vines on well-drained soils or grapes over-exposed to sunshine.
- Merlot harvest began in the first week of September. Heavy rain on 20 September - brought forward the Cabernet harvest at some estates. Other estates chose to wait until after the rain (which was less heavy than forecast).
- An "Indian summer" gave plenty of time to pick the last red grapes without fear of rot.
- The white wine harvest was excellent for both dry and sweet white wines. The cooler start to the summer produced excellent acidity levels. In Sauternes, alternating wet/dry spells were ideal for botrytis, which developed earlier than in previous vintages. Warm dry weather in October allowed for repeated ‘tries’ in the vineyard.
[i] Prof. Laurence Geny, Elodie Guittard, Dr. Valérie Lavigne and Prof. Axel Marchal Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences of Bordeaux University, Oenology Research Unit, ‘The 2023 vintage in Bordeaux’
| RED | 2023 | 3 cases | Château Angludet | 75cl | £288 per case of 12 | Château Angludet 2023 / 3 cases / 75cl £288 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"A polished and in-check red with blackberry, dark-chocolate and walnut aromas and flavors. It has a medium body, creamy and round tannins and a savory finish. Well done for this estate. Better than 2022. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 20 cases | Château Beaumont | 75cl | £115 per case of 12 | Château Beaumont 2023 / 20 cases / 75cl £115 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"Aromas of sweet cassis and plums framed by a touch of creamy oak introduce the 2023 Beaumont, a medium-bodied, supple, soft and giving blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot. While this estate suffered from frost and mildew, for now it retains attractive purity of fruit in an easygoing style. 87-89 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Beaumont has a generous bouquet with a mixture of blackberries, red plums and sous-bois. It's not as powerful as the previous vintage, but there is always a sense of "honesty" about this claret that I appreciate. The palate is medium-bodied with powdery tannins and fine acidity, quite smooth in texture, with a touch of savoriness on the finish. Enjoy it over six to eight years. 88-90 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com ------"Deep ruby/plum-hued, the 2023 Château Beaumont offers up a beautiful nose of red and black currants, leafy herbs, spice, and a hint of flowers. It's balanced, medium-bodied, has some classy, chocolaty oak, and ripe tannins. A rock solid Haut-Médoc, it has outstanding potential, if not a tad more. 88-90 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"Notes of dark berry and walnut here. It’s medium-bodied with a grainy texture and some good fruit at the end. 89-90 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 3 cases | Château Beychevelle | 75cl | £359 per case of 6 | Château Beychevelle 2023 / 3 cases / 75cl £359 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Beychevelle was picked from September 13 through October 6 over 17 days of harvest, partly because of the size of the crop and not having to rush. It has the highest proportion of Merlot under winemaker Philippe Blanc (35%), and it matured in 70% new oak. This has a notably floral and tightly-knit bouquet, leaning a little more toward blue fruit than other Saint-Julien wines tasted from barrel. The oak is nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with strict tannins that impart a sense of linearity. Very saline, this is a saliva-inducing Beychevelle, lightly spiced with a structured, almost Pauillac-like finish. Excellent. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Beychevelle has turned out especially well this year, exhibiting a more integrated, seductive style than recent vintages that were constructed in a punchier, more extracted register. Offering up aromas of cassis and plums mingled with notions of pen ink, violets and pencil shavings, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and fleshy, with a deep core of fruit and a classy, suave profile that foregrounds the estate's prime vineyard holdings on the plateau around Ducru-Beaucaillou. It's a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot that represents 50% of the estate's production. 93-94 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"Pure fruit to this, with blueberries, hazelnuts, walnut and blackcurrants. Just like eating grapes at this stage. It has a full body, juicy tannins and a savory finish. Remains vivid and energetic. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com------"From a château that seems to have hit another gear over the past five to seven years, the 2023 Château Beychevelle is based on 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot, pulled from 60% of the total production, and will see 18 months in 70% new French oak. Its deep purple hue is followed by a deep, rich, medium to full-bodied Saint-Julien loaded with ripe red and blue fruits, leafy herbs, truffle, iron, and spring flowers. It's medium to full-bodied, has a remarkable sense of freshness and purity, velvety tannins, and outstanding length. The 2023 hit 13.3% alcohol with a rock-solid pH of 3.67. 93-96 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"The 2023 Beychevelle is fabulous. As always, Beychevelle includes quite a bit more Merlot than most wines in the appellation, but the Cabernet is especially high here. Inky dark fruit, crème de cassis, mocha, licorice and lavender build in the glass. This juicy, extroverted Saint-Julien has a ton to offer. The combination of fruit intensity, acid and supporting structure is superb. The 2023 is showy, but not at all overdone. Beychevelle remains one of the most distinctive wines in all of Bordeaux. It is especially classy in this edition. Tasted two times. 2033-2063. 94-96 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 1 case | Château Canon | 75cl | £537 per case of 6 | Château Canon 2023 / 1 case / 75cl £537 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Canon was picked from around 6 September to 6 October at 45hL/ha and matured in 50% new oak. It has a perfumed bouquet with pure black cherries and touches of cassis and violet. The oak is beautifully integrated. Perhaps if I have to quibble, it is not quite as complex as the very best recent vintages, but that's a high bar nowadays. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black cherry fruit laced with iodine, and veins of blue fruit. There is a sorbet-like freshness embroidered throughout this Canon, and it delivers a lovely cracked black pepper note on the finish. Excellent. Again. 94-96 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Finesse and saline limestone character on full display, spiced plum, textural as ever, with finely boned architecture, in the line of great Canon vintages, with density to the black fruits and the mouthwateringly precise tannic grip and oyster shell salinity. 50% new oak for ageing, harvest September 6 through to October 4 (with Merlot going right through until the end, unlike many places, here they really waited). 45hl/ha yield, in organic conversion. Tasted twice. 96 points" janeanson.com------"Wafting from the glass with aromas of mulberries and raspberries mingled with spices, rose petals, licorice and violets, the 2023 Canon is another brilliant wine from a property whose excellence can almost be taken for granted. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's seamless and concentrated, its vibrant core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannins and girdled by lively acids, concluding with a long, mineral finish. 96-98 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"A blend of 71% Merlot and 29% Cabernet Franc, the 2023 Canon has a pH of 3.42 and it will age in barriques for 16-18 months, of which 50% are new. It is deep garnet-purple in color and sails out of the glass with bold notions of juicy blueberries, fresh plums, and Bing cherries, giving way to hints of black pepper, fragrant soil, and violets. The medium to full-bodied palate shimmers with energetic black and blue fruits, framed by super-satiny tannins and compelling tension, finishing long and fragrant. Absolutely ethereal! 98-100 points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent------"This is so elegant and sophisticated already, with a really electric presence and length that goes on and on. It's medium- to full-bodied with an intensity of tannins. It remains weightless and energetic. The pH is 3.41, making this a vivid and lively wine. Currant, orange and stone. Sea salt, too. The limestone soils created a unique wine here in 2023. A blend of 71% merlot and 29% cabernet franc. 99-100 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 2 cases | Château Carlmagnus | 75cl | £110 per case of 12 | Château Carlmagnus 2023 / 2 cases / 75cl £110 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Château Carlmagnus is mostly Merlot, offering textbook notes of juicy cherry and strawberry fruit as well as medium-bodied richness and depth on the palate. This charming, forward, easygoing 2023 is going to be best drunk in its youth. 86-88 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"The 2023 Carlmagnus is aromatic and vibrant in the glass. Crushed flowers, red berry fruit, mint and white pepper lend a good bit of aromatic nuance. There's a bit of edginess in the tannin that hopefully will resolve. 87-89 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"Fresh acidities, but closes down quickly on the palate with concentrated and intense tannic grip and grilled oak. There are autumnal fruits here, and a limestone scrape, needs a little time to reveal the joy. 89 points" janeanson.com------"Crafted from 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2023 Carlmagnus possesses a somber, reduced bouquet with pleasant notes of spices, dark wild berries, violet and cherries. Less chunky than usual, the wine on the palate is medium to full-bodied, layered and rich with structured tannins and a long but a bit firm finish. It will evolve with grace over the next decade. 89-91 points" RobertParker.com ------"Juicy red with fresh red and dark berries and a hint of citrus peel. Medium-bodied with firm but fine tannins. Crunchy finish. 90-91 points" jamessuckling.com------"The 2023 Carlmagnus has a punchy bouquet with iodine-infused block cherry and blueberry fruit, perhaps lacking a bit of definition, but I appreciate the concentration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, powdery tannins, fresh and bright with a very controlled and persistent finish. This is a fine, perhaps earlier-drinking Fronsac. 90-92 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Clerc Milon - Pastourelle de Clerc Milon | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Clerc Milon Pastourelle de Clerc Milon 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"A salty undertone to the blackberry and terra-cotta character. Dark fruit. Medium to full body, layered tannins and an intense finish. Excellent density. Special this year. 63% merlot, 29% cabernet sauvignon, 5% cabernet franc, 2% carmenere and 1% petit verdot. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château d'Yquem | 75cl | £780 per case of 3 | Château d'Yquem 2023 / / 75cl £780 per case of 3 |
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Tasting Notes"Perfect aromas carry through to every milliliter of this wine, showing intense orange peel, honey, butterscotch, saffron, smoke and peat, with hints of coffee and dried apples. Full-bodied but weightless and silky, with an excellent balance of fruit, sweetness and spices. Some peanut brittle, dried oranges and lemons at the end. I can’t get over how wonderful this is now, but it can age forever. 154 g/L residual sugar. Drink or hold. 100 points." Jamessuckling.com------"Power, freshness, depth, after the extremes of 2021 and 2022, this walks the line between the two, exceptional, mandarin, quince, mirabelle plums, white truffle, fresh fruit and confit fruit, a vibration of slate and steel, opulent but slices closed on the finish. The botrytis came early and quickly in 2023. Francis Mayeur in final vintage as consultant, after many years as inhouse winemaking team, Lorenzo Pasquini director. 154g/l residual sugar, 3.85ph, harvest September 14 to October 11. 2026-2050. 100 points." Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux, Feb '26------"With 153 grams per liter of residual sugar—placing it among the 10 most concentrated vintages in the château’s history—the 2023 d'Yquem ranks among the finest wines bottled here under Lorenzo Pasquini’s direction. It unfurls from the glass with a complex, vibrant and remarkably pure bouquet of pineapple, guava, mango, confit citrus, beeswax and spices. Full-bodied, dense and concentrated, it combines formidable depth with perfectly judged control, built around a fleshy core of fruit, framed by lively acidity and a crystalline texture and culminating in an endless, refined and ethereal finish. Yquem’s natural power is here masterfully harnessed by the vintage’s freshness and tension, revealing an aesthetic of precision and vibrancy encountered only in the estate’s greatest years—made all the more remarkable by the fact that the château now achieves even higher levels of concentration than a decade ago, without any perceptible increase in sweetness on the palate. 2026-076. 100 points." (YC) Wine Advocate, Mar '26 |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château d'Yquem | Half bottle | £780 per case of 6 | Château d'Yquem 2023 / / Half bottle £780 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Perfect aromas carry through to every milliliter of this wine, showing intense orange peel, honey, butterscotch, saffron, smoke and peat, with hints of coffee and dried apples. Full-bodied but weightless and silky, with an excellent balance of fruit, sweetness and spices. Some peanut brittle, dried oranges and lemons at the end. I can’t get over how wonderful this is now, but it can age forever. 154 g/L residual sugar. Drink or hold. 100 points." Jamessuckling.com------"Power, freshness, depth, after the extremes of 2021 and 2022, this walks the line between the two, exceptional, mandarin, quince, mirabelle plums, white truffle, fresh fruit and confit fruit, a vibration of slate and steel, opulent but slices closed on the finish. The botrytis came early and quickly in 2023. Francis Mayeur in final vintage as consultant, after many years as inhouse winemaking team, Lorenzo Pasquini director. 154g/l residual sugar, 3.85ph, harvest September 14 to October 11. 2026-2050. 100 points." Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux, Feb '26------"With 153 grams per liter of residual sugar—placing it among the 10 most concentrated vintages in the château’s history—the 2023 d'Yquem ranks among the finest wines bottled here under Lorenzo Pasquini’s direction. It unfurls from the glass with a complex, vibrant and remarkably pure bouquet of pineapple, guava, mango, confit citrus, beeswax and spices. Full-bodied, dense and concentrated, it combines formidable depth with perfectly judged control, built around a fleshy core of fruit, framed by lively acidity and a crystalline texture and culminating in an endless, refined and ethereal finish. Yquem’s natural power is here masterfully harnessed by the vintage’s freshness and tension, revealing an aesthetic of precision and vibrancy encountered only in the estate’s greatest years—made all the more remarkable by the fact that the château now achieves even higher levels of concentration than a decade ago, without any perceptible increase in sweetness on the palate. 2026-076. 100 points." (YC) Wine Advocate, Mar '26 |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château d'Yquem | 75cl | £1,560 per case of 6 | Château d'Yquem 2023 / / 75cl £1,560 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Perfect aromas carry through to every milliliter of this wine, showing intense orange peel, honey, butterscotch, saffron, smoke and peat, with hints of coffee and dried apples. Full-bodied but weightless and silky, with an excellent balance of fruit, sweetness and spices. Some peanut brittle, dried oranges and lemons at the end. I can’t get over how wonderful this is now, but it can age forever. 154 g/L residual sugar. Drink or hold. 100 points." Jamessuckling.com------"Power, freshness, depth, after the extremes of 2021 and 2022, this walks the line between the two, exceptional, mandarin, quince, mirabelle plums, white truffle, fresh fruit and confit fruit, a vibration of slate and steel, opulent but slices closed on the finish. The botrytis came early and quickly in 2023. Francis Mayeur in final vintage as consultant, after many years as inhouse winemaking team, Lorenzo Pasquini director. 154g/l residual sugar, 3.85ph, harvest September 14 to October 11. 2026-2050. 100 points." Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux, Feb '26------"With 153 grams per liter of residual sugar—placing it among the 10 most concentrated vintages in the château’s history—the 2023 d'Yquem ranks among the finest wines bottled here under Lorenzo Pasquini’s direction. It unfurls from the glass with a complex, vibrant and remarkably pure bouquet of pineapple, guava, mango, confit citrus, beeswax and spices. Full-bodied, dense and concentrated, it combines formidable depth with perfectly judged control, built around a fleshy core of fruit, framed by lively acidity and a crystalline texture and culminating in an endless, refined and ethereal finish. Yquem’s natural power is here masterfully harnessed by the vintage’s freshness and tension, revealing an aesthetic of precision and vibrancy encountered only in the estate’s greatest years—made all the more remarkable by the fact that the château now achieves even higher levels of concentration than a decade ago, without any perceptible increase in sweetness on the palate. 2026-076. 100 points." (YC) Wine Advocate, Mar '26 |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château d'Yquem - Y' d'Yquem | 75cl | £720 per case of 6 | Château d'Yquem Y' d'Yquem 2023 / / 75cl £720 per case of 6 |
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| RED | 2023 | 2 cases | Château Figeac | 75cl | £894 per case of 6 | Château Figeac 2023 / 2 cases / 75cl £894 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Château Figeac is Merlot-dominated but includes 32% Cabernet Franc and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the élevage all in new French oak. Classic Figeac purple fruits, tobacco, leafy herbs, violets, and graphite all emerge on the nose, and it hits the palate with medium to full body, a remarkable sense of purity and precision, fine-grained tannins, and a gorgeous finish. Hitting 13.5% alcohol and a pH of 3.68, it's a beautiful wine in the vintage that shows the absolute class of this château today. 94-97 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"The 2023 Figeac is gorgeous. Seamless and vibrant, with captivating elegance, this is an absolute beauty. What I admire most is its exceptional balance. Everything is in the right place. Time in the glass brings out hints of gravel, dried herbs, licorice, tobacco and cedar that add dimension. Although it is early, Figeac is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. 95-98 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"A brilliant classic in the making, the 2023 Figeac unwinds in the glass with aromas of cassis and mulberry mingled with notions of iris, cigar wrapper, pencil shavings, burning embers and spices. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with an enveloping core of fruit that's framed by powdery tannins and lively acids, concluding with a broad, atypically mineral finish. It's a blend of 41% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon that attained 13.5% alcohol. 96-98 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"A blend of 41% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc, and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2023 Figeac has a pH of 3.68 and it is deep garnet-purple in color. It prances out of the glass with out-going scents of black raspberries and fresh blackcurrants, opening out to reveal an undercurrent of pencil shavings, rose bud tea, iron ore, and wood smoke. The medium-bodied palate delivers a rock-solid structure of firm, grainy tannins and beautiful tension supporting the taut, muscular black fruits, finishing with a long-lingering mineral firework display. 96-98 points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent------"he 2023 Figeac was cropped at 45hL/ha from September 6 until October 5, one of the longest harvest periods ever. It matured in 100% new oak, as usual. My samples included the 5% vin de presse. This has a very perfumed bouquet: red fruit rather than black, iris flower rather than violet, light sous-bois and tobacco scents deriving from the Cabernets. The palate is medium-bodied, and the Cabernets really "sing" on the entry. Black fruit mixes with graphite and light tobacco notes, surging with fresh acidity and real brightness, or what the French call éclat. There’s gentle grip here—classic Figeac from start to finish, with a subtle marine influence toward the close. This will be a wonderful Saint-Émilion that ranks amongst the best wines of the vintage. Chapeau! 96-98 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The density and finesse to this is terrific, offering blackberry, dark chocolate, walnut and hazelnut, as well as currant and sandalwood. Orange peel, too. Full-bodied and compact with a superb core of thick, velvet-textured tannins and a juicy finish. Extremely long. 41% merlot, 32% cabernet franc and 27% cabernet sauvignon. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com------"Fragrant floral aromatics straight off the bat, peony and violet, and a vibrant juiciness that travels through the palate. Savoury dark fruit character, with flint and textural interest, full of Figeac finesse. 130th vintage of the Manoncourt family at Figeac, and the first vintage where they knew they were Premier Grand Cru Classé A from the start of the season, as it was announced in September 2022. 130mm of rain lower than average over the growing season here, allowing a long slow harvest from September 6 to October 5, 45hl/h yield. 98 points" janeanson.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 1 case | Château Gloria | 75cl | £275 per case of 12 | Château Gloria 2023 / 1 case / 75cl £275 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Gloria presents a deep purple hue. It has a succinct bouquet with black cherries, red plum and pronounced floral aromas that emanate from the Petit Verdot. The palate is medium-bodied with bright blackberry and raspberry fruit, quite a minerally Gloria with a more linear, stricter finish than the 2022, as you would expect. There’s also fine salinity here. This is a classy Gloria that just misses the panache of recent vintages (and of the 2023 Saint-Pierre). 90-92 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Love this inky depths of the plummy fruits and deep rich chcolate notes, great quality with depths and balance. Last year of organic conversion. 93 points" janeanson.com------"Blackberries and blueberries with stone and sandalwood undertones. It’s medium- to full-bodied with integrated tannins that are polished and refined. Long finish. Solid and rather muscular. Could move up a notch. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com------"Cassis, violets, spicy wood, espresso, and a kiss of graphite all emerge from the 2023 Château Gloria, an incredibly pure, medium to full-bodied, ripe, balanced Saint-Julien. It shows the pure, elegant style of the vintage, has ripe tannins, plenty of mid-palate depth, and a great finish. This château hasn't put a foot wrong in some time, and they certainly did well in 2023. 92-94 points" Jebdunnuck.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 1 case | Château Lafite | 75cl | £2,150 per case of 6 | Château Lafite 2023 / 1 case / 75cl £2,150 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Lafite-Rothschild was picked September 7 to 29 at 45hL/ha and matured in 90% new oak. This is more discrete on the nose—one of the tropes of this First Growth—even when compared to the more immediate Carruades. This takes time to unfurl in the glass, slowly revealing black fruit laced with pencil box and just a touch of pressed violet. There's wonderful precision here. The palate is medium-bodied with a cashmere texture, very pure (again) with a judicious dab of cracked black pepper. The finish is very sleek, thanks to its almost filigree tannins, seeming to glide across the palate. It's not a grippy or sinewy Pauillac, and on reflection, it is technically perfect. Yet, I find myself searching for a bit more...soul. Perhaps a few rough edges would captivate the emotions. This is a delicious Lafite- Rothschild no doubt, but I want it to move me once in bottle. Maybe it will. 2030-2070. 95-97 points." Neal Martin, Vinous, Apr '24------"The 2023 Lafite•Rothschild races out of the glass with notable textural intensity. Explosive and deep, with striking balance, Lafite dazzles in this vintage. The 2023 is a somber, virile Lafite endowed with remarkable depth and tons of sheer character. Plum, blackberry, gravel, pencil shavings, graphite, mocha and lavender build into the intense, palate- staining finish. The blend is 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. 2023-2073. 95-97 points." Antonio Galloni, Vinous, Apr '24------"The purity of cabernet sauvignon is so evident here. It mesmerizes you with aromas of black and red currants, cedar, tobacco and bark. It's full-bodied yet there's very impressive weightlessness and agility, as well as subtlety and focus. Some iron and terra-cotta. Cedar and sandalwood undertones. Juicy and plummy at the end. 12.9% alcohol. 3.75 pH. A blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot. 97-98 points." James Suckling, Apr '24------"The finest of the first growths this year appears to be the 2023 Lafite Rothschild, a terrific effort that unwinds in the glass with deep and incipiently complex aromas of cassis, pencil shavings, lilac and violets mingled with hints of cigar wrapper and mint. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's vibrant and refined, with a deep core of fruit, plenty of sweet structuring tannin and a compelling marriage between energy and plenitude. It's a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot that reminds me of 2019's tannins combined with 2016's unimpeachable classicism. 97-99 points." (WK) The Wine Advocate, Apr '24-----"This hits you right off the first nose, driven by slate and crushed rocks, setting the tone and the architecture, guiding the fruit through the palate. Cassis, bilberry, tobacco leaf, graphite, crushed mint, finessed and sculpted, this is a gorgeous Lafite, with fine tannins and the squid ink character that seems to be present in all of this stable of wines except Moulin de Duhart. Hidden power, where nothing is too much and yet everything is concentrated, once again proving that the terroir at this particular spot has its own personality that stands out every year. High Cabernet as ever, combined with around 15% press wine. Not the concentration of 2022, but in many ways showcasing the essence of Lafite more squarely, and this will delight anyone lucky enough to own it in future years. 45hl/h yield, highest since 2015, harvest September 7 to 29. 100% new oak. New cellar underway, due for completion in 2027. I am giving it 10 years to begin entering its opening window, a little less than usual but it will make no difference to how long you can cellar it. 98-100 points." Jane Anson, Apr '24 |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Lafite - Carruades de Lafite | 75cl | £930 per case of 6 | Château Lafite Carruades de Lafite 2023 / / 75cl £930 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, the 2023 Carruades de Lafite is lovely, bursting with aromas of minty blackberries, cassis and cigar box, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered palate that's creamy and textural, its generous core of fruit largely concealing its powdery structuring tannins, concluding with a long, resonant finish. 91-93 points." (WK) The Wine Advocate------"The 2023 Carruades de Lafite is a very pretty, sensual wine that very much captures the personality of the Grand Vin, naturally in a more approachable style. The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, with no Franc or Petit Verdot. I have to say, there is something very direct about the QOQ3—something frank that is really evident. I admire its purity. Succulent red plum, spice, cedar, tobacco and a lifting touch of white pepper open first, while beautifully persistent saline undertones extend the finish. 2027-2047. 92-94 points." Neal Martin, Vinous, Apr '24------"Medium intensity ruby, fairly austere right now, structured, with the same mint leaf and ink quality as Lafite. The sweet brambled black fruits only come in through the mid palate, this is well paced, unrolls slowly, a serious and concentrated Carruades that has its eye on the future. 12% pres wine, harvest September 7 to 29, unusually only using Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. 94 points." Jane Anson, Apr '24------"A savory and juicy Carruades with softness and notes of ripe berry, cedar and dried tobacco. Like Lafite from the 1980s but more precise. Round and pretty. It really grows on the finish with such sweetness of fruit and length. Pointed, fine tannins at the end. Very long. A blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 1 case | Château Le Tertre Roteboeuf | 75cl | £770 per case of 6 | Château Le Tertre Roteboeuf 2023 / 1 case / 75cl £770 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Tertre-Rôteboeuf is a potent, backward wine. Dark-toned fruit and huge, sweeping tannins make a strong first impression. The 2023 is a somber, brooding Tertre-Rôteboeuf that will need at least a few years to come into its own. It's difficult to say whether the searing tannins will ever fully soften; I would say that is a 50/50 proposition at this stage. En primeur at Tertre-Rôteboeuf is more akin to Burgundy than Bordeaux; wines are tasted straight from barrel rather than from prepared samples, so there is always a bit of variability. I observed this in the two barrels I tasted. 2030-2043 91-94 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Tertre Rôteboeuf was picked from September 26 with a normal duration of picking. It has a typical bouquet for this Saint-Émilion that plays by its own rules: black cherries, dark chocolate, a touch of melted tar and licorice, well-defined and actually gaining precision as it opens in the glass. The palate is very smooth and a little savory in style, displaying hints of meat juices and white pepper, almost garrigue-like toward the finish. There's an appealing dash of black pepper on the aftertaste that seems to linger temptingly. Those who love this Chateau will love the 2023. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Le Tertre Roteboeuf offers up aromas of crème de cassis, blueberry liqueur, kirsch, espresso roast and creamy new oak, followed by a full-bodied, rich and layered palate that's sweet, dense and concentrated, somewhat reminiscent of François Mitjaville's 2011. When I tasted it, the wine had only been in barrel for a matter of weeks, as the 2023 took an unusually long time to ferment to dryness. 92-96 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The juice, the salinity, the plump fruits and the pleasure bursting out of this glass are off the scale. Expect waves of fleshy red cherry, raspberry, squid ink, tar and smoked grilled caramel, tannins full of sinew. All picked in one day, Henri Mitjavile winemaker alongside his father François Mitjavile. 100% new oak for ageing. 97 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Tertre Roteboeuf is deep garnet-purple in color. It erupts from the glass with powerful notes of plum preserves, juicy ripe blackberries, and licorice leading to suggestions of charcoal, black olives, cumin seed, lavender oil, and crushed rocks with a waft of iron ore. The full-bodied palate vibrates with energetic black fruits and savory accents, supported by beautifully velvety tannins and wonderful tension, finishing long and minerally. This is a stunning expression of the vintage! 96-98 points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent |
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| RED | 2023 | 1 case | Château L'Eglise Clinet | 75cl | £1,254 per case of 6 | Château L'Eglise Clinet 2023 / 1 case / 75cl £1,254 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 L'Eglise Clinet unwinds in the glass with brooding aromas of dark berries and cherries mingled with baking chocolate, pipe tobacco and toasty new oak. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, with a sweet core of fruit framed by rich, powdery, generously extracted tannin, it's broad-shouldered and powerful, concluding with a long, expansive finish. It's a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc that checks in at 14.6% alcohol. 93-95 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 L’Eglise-Clinet is fabulous. Rich, deep and vertical in structure, this is all poise. Nothing in particular stands out, as all the elements are impeccably balanced. Time in the glass helps this open a bit, but the 2023 is a wine of reserve—a wine that is not showing all its cards. Gravel, incense, tobacco, dried herbs and mocha open with some coaxing. This will be stellar in time. 2030-2053 94-97 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"Rises through the palate, intense and concentrated with cloves, pomegranate, black pepper, cumin, rosemary, rich black fruits balanced and given lift and contrast by nuanced and fresher raspberry leaf, tomato leaf, saline squid ink, and fresh citrus peel acidities. This has cohesion, precision, lift and character. Noëmie Durantou winemaker. Harvest September 1 to 18. 42hl/h yield. 97 points" janeanson.com------"The purity and precision tof this young Eglise Clinet is exceptional, with finesse, intensity and fine tannins that last for minutes on the palate. It grows slowly and then builds and continues. The energy is terrific. Finishes long and confident. All about structure with finesse. The tannins really are refined and tightly woven. 90% merlot and 10% cabernet franc. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com------"The 2023 L'Eglise-Clinet was picked between September 10 and 14 and matured in 82% new oak. It has a stunning bouquet with enthralling delineation and focus, very intense with blackberries, raspberry, crushed stone, Earl Grey and a touch of blood orange. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins and a dash of cracked black pepper. It's very harmonious and fans out brilliantly on the finish. It is surely going to vie with the stupendous 2022, and this ranks as one of the best wines of the vintage. Tasted on two visits at the beginning and end of my Bordeaux tastings. 98-100 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 1 case | Château Léoville Poyferré | 75cl | £337 per case of 6 | Château Léoville Poyferré 2023 / 1 case / 75cl £337 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Aromas of cassis, plums, pencil shavings and toasty new oak introduce the 2023 Léoville Poyferré, a medium to full-bodied, rich and chunky wine with a deep core of succulent fruit framed by sweet, generously extracted tannins. It's a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot that saw some saignée and osmosis for additional concentration. As usual, it's the creamiest, most "modern"-styled of the three Léovilles. Harvest began on September 14 and concluded on October 5, with fermentations a little cooler than usual, perhaps an intimation of a stylistic evolution in progress. 93-95 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"This is already very pretty and polished with plenty of currant and plum character. Medium- to full-bodied with creamy, round tannins and a juicy finish. Caressing. Very refined. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com------"The 2023 Léoville-Poyferré was picked from September 14 until October 5 at 52.78hL/ha and aged in slightly less new oak than usual, simply because of the large volume. In fact, some of the lots commenced their malolactic fermentation in vat rather than barrel. This has an intense bouquet with black cherries and iodine, becoming more floral with aeration. The palate opens with a medium body and pliant tannins, fleshy and ripe, dovetailing into a dense and multi-tiered mid-palate. Typical Poyferré in style, blood orange and light graphite notes are embroidered into the ripe black fruit, and there is noticeable glycerol on the finish. It is perhaps the most opulent of the three Léovilles, and yet it arrives with a modest 13.1% alcohol. This is a contender for the best Saint-Julien in show. 95-97 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Brilliant Poyferré, deep ruby colour, setting the scene for ink, campfire, espresso, mint, cassis and damson. Concentrated but with a delicious balance, this feels effortless and is truly a wine for Bordeaux lovers to seek out. Harvest September 14 to October 5. 80% new oak, 52hl/h yields, biggest since 2004, with more 1st wine than usual because the old Cabernet Sauvignon plots gave quality and quantity (after three low quantity years). Alix Combes new vineyard manager, replacing long time manager Bruno Clenet. 98 points" janeanson.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 1 case | Château Margaux | 75cl | £2,160 per case of 6 | Château Margaux 2023 / 1 case / 75cl £2,160 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Château Margaux shows considerable promise, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cassis, violets, spring flowers and sweet tobacco, framed by a deft touch of new oak. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's taut, concentrated and classically structured, with sweet, refined tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, mouthwatering finish. It's a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot that attained 13% alcohol. 95-97 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"Vibrant peony and ruby red colour, this hums with movement and energy through the palate, a complex bloom of lavendar and white rose flowers, fresh and dense at the same time. Classical Margaux, with the savoury quality of the best wines of the year, a ton of fine tannins with a reserved sculpted architecture. The drinkability of this vintage is such a welcome return, and this is exceptionally good quality, and a real pleasure to taste. Superb winemaking from Philippe Bascaules. 41hl/h yield (compared to 25hl/h last year), 41% of the production in this 1st wine. 98 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Chateau Margaux, accounting for 41% of this year's crop, is deep garnet-purple in color. A little shy to begin, it needs some swirling before notes of black cherries, blackcurrant pastilles, and anise emerge from the glass, leading to suggestions of fragrant soil, lilacs, and cardamom with a touch of iron ore. The medium-bodied palate is elegantly crafted, with fabulous tension creating an exhilarating sense of energy in the mouth, offset by firm fine-grained tannins to support the vibrant red and black berry layers, finishing long and perfumed. So fragrant and graceful, this could only be Chateau Margaux! The blend is 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot, with pH 3.60. "There is a little more Cabernet Franc this year. More and more has been making it into the First Wine. We have been grafting over some vines to Cabernet Franc and planting more." 97-99 points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent------"The 2023 Château Margaux, which contains 15% vin de presse, is quintessential Château Margaux. It immediately blossoms in the glass with irresistible crushed violets on the nose, instantly demanding attention—you will gladly give it. Exquisitely defined and very focused with supremely well integrated oak, this is blessed with laser-like precision. The palate is silky smooth on the entry, perhaps a little feistier than expected thanks to a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. Quite structured (like the Pavillon Rouge) and gentle, you can almost overlook its grip. It finishes with a concentrated, graphite-tinged finish that lingers long in the mouth. This First Growth will require ten years in bottle to really show what it is capable of. 97-99 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Château Margaux is fabulous. Sensual, silky and exceptionally polished, the 2023 Château Margaux is shaping up to be a classic. Seamless, silky tannins wrap around a core of dark red/purplish fruit. Hints of spice, new leather, menthol, licorice and rose petal fill out the glass. There's a bit of new oak peeking through today, but that won't be an issue in a few years' time. Only Bordeaux can produce wines that offer so much flavor intensity at a low alcohols. Margaux is the least showy of the First Growths, but it is often the most refined. The 2023 is sublime. 97-100 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"The aromas in this young Margaux are so primary, reminding me of grape must fermenting in the vat, then turning to perfumes and flowers. Violets and roses. Full-bodied but it comes across as so agile and bright, with vivid acidity that makes the wine crunchy and linear. As Alexis, one of the owners of Margaux said, this really shows the DNA of the estate. Weightless. One of the wines of the vintage. 3.6 pH. Blend of 89% cabernet sauvignon, 5% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot. 99-100 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 4 cases | Château Montrose | 75cl | £714 per case of 6 | Château Montrose 2023 / 4 cases / 75cl £714 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Montrose is a dark, brooding powerhouse but with the elegance that is such a signature today. Black cherry, plum, leather, licorice, mocha, spice, tobacco and dried flowers infuse the 2023 with tons of character. The Cabernet Sauvignon is so expressive here. Readers will have to be patient, as this is a wine built for the cellar. It's not especially showy today, but all the ingredients are there. The 2023 is quite the bruiser. In other words, it’s classic Montrose. In the end, that's not terribly surprising, as the winemaking team relied exclusively on the original holdings of about 45 hectares from what the estate calls the 'grand plateau' or 'Terrace 4', essentially the historic core of the property. Harvest ran from September 5 to 28. There was some rain on the 21st, but 15mm of precipitation after a heat spike was not meaningful. The 2023 is magnificent in every way. 2032-2063. 95-97 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Montrose is focused on the original terroir of the estate, known as Terrace 4, located in front of the river. It comprises 45 hectares, around 12 to 15 hectares less than previous vintages so as to capture the expression of Montrose classified in 1855. Picked from September 5 to 28 and matured in 60% new oak, this has a very intense and focused bouquet: pure black fruit with just a touch of strawberry, hints of violet petals developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins—very pure, with pitch-perfect acidity. This gains depth toward the finish but maintains a sense of linearity that ensures it is one of the vintage’s finest contributions from the Left Bank. Magnificent. 96-98 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Gorgeously dark and vibrant fruit, with gunsmoke and campfire, concentrated cassis and blackberry pastille, grilled almond, saffron and pomegrante, luscious but measured, showing the inky character that seems to be at the heart of the best Cabernets of this vintage, with their ripe but not overly exuberant classicism. Organic conversion, to be certified 2025. The first vintage this 1st wine of Montrose is coming only from the section of the vineyard located on Terrace 4 of the Médoc gravel banks that line the Garonne river along the peninsula. Following soil studies from Pierre Becheler, this comprises 35% of the overall production in 2023, or 45ha of vines, and is the historic heart of the property. Pierre Grafeuille director, Vincent Decup technical director. 98 points." Jane Anson------"Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2023 Montrose gallops out of the glass with intense scents of crushed blackcurrants, fresh blackberries, and raspberries along with nuances of licorice, crushed rocks, and mossy tree bark plus a hint of iron ore. The medium-bodied palate has impressive tension and tight-knit black and red berry flavors intertwined with mineral accents, framed by fine-grained tannins, finishing long and sparkly. The first wine accounted for only 35% of the estate's production this year. The blend is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc, with pH 3.70. 97-99 points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent------"Made from a strict selection of only the best terroirs (terrace 4) around the estate and the oldest vines, the 2023 Château Montrose is a more Cabernet Sauvignon-driven wine than normal and is based on 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc that will see 18 months in 60% new French oak. The result is a more plush, deep, opulent wine that has classic Montrose darker, almost blue fruits, violets, chocolate, and damp earth-like aromas and flavors. Deep, rich, full-bodied, and expansive on the palate, it has more richness, breadth, and concentration than just about every other wine in the vintage. The 2023 hit 13.5% natural alcohol with a pH of 3.7. It has some similarities to the 2010 (or 2016?) and might end up being the wine of the vintage. 97-100 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"The 2023 Montrose is another brilliant wine from an estate that's now routinely among Bordeaux's very best, year in, year out. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, derived exclusively from the estate's historic core on the fourth terrace situated just in front of the château itself, it unwinds in the glass with aromas of cassis and wild berries mingled with notions of lilac, violet and pencil shavings. Full-bodied, deep and layered, with a textural attack that segues into a dense, multidimensional mid-palate framed by beautifully ripe tannins and lively acids, it concludes with a long, resonant finish. It will be worth a special effort to seek out. 97-100 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"Wow. This is the essence of Montrose, with blackberry, blackcurrant, crushed stone and earth. I have not tasted a Montrose like this in 42 years of my career. It has a much more vertical nature to it, with layered tannins that go very deep and long, The muscular structure and intensity is something else. This is a new era for Montrose. It is now made from only 45 hectares of vineyards right in front of the chateau, instead of about 60 before. 75% cabernet sauvignon, 21% merlot and 4% cabernet franc. 99-100 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | 2 cases | Château Pontet Canet | 75cl | £360 per case of 6 | Château Pontet Canet 2023 / 2 cases / 75cl £360 per case of 6 |
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