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2019 Domaine Bachey-Legros

The red and white burgundies from Domaine Bachey-Legros in Santenay were a huge hit in our 2018 en primeur offers, so much so that we re-offered some remaining stocks of the 2017s in the summer.  This week we had our first opportunity to taste cask samples of the 2019s, confirming our feeling that brothers Samuel and Lénaïc make some of the best value burgundies we know. 

A winning combination of very old vines and a winemaking approach that emphasises richness, produces whites in a luscious style and reds which rival the Cotes de Nuits for concentration and tannic structure.  Earlier this year, Tim Atkin MW described their flagship premier cru site thus: 

"Clos Rousseau would be much more famous if it were located in Vosne-Romanée or Gevrey-Chambertin rather than Santenay, such is the quality of the wines from this Premier Cru."  Tim Atkin MW, Decanter Jan 2020

The Santenay Blanc 'Les Gravieres' 1er Cru was a highlight of our tasting, with mineral aromas and exotic and tropical fruits leaping out of the glass immediately we approached it.  Judging by this and by Michelot's Gravieres Blanc (which we will offer later this month) this is a gem of a terroir and one worth knowing about. 

Amongst the reds we tasted, the 2019 Santenay 'Clos Rousseau' Les Fourneaux Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru once again asserted itself the equal of wines from more famous, northerly villages, with a particular resemblance to Vosne-Romanée.  Brilliant value all of them, we recommend you pounce on these wines whilst they are available.

Offered en primeur, landing late autumn 2021.

Domaine Bachey-Legros, Santenay

Producer Profile

Domaine Bachey-Legros, Santenay

Samuel and Lénaïc Legros' 2018 Clos Rousseau 1er Cru was described as the "best value red burgundy" of the 2018 en primeur campaign by Tim Atkin MW in Decanter Magazine.  We have sold their 'Clos des Hâtes‘ lieu-dit for some time, but the success of the 2018s led us to take a more detailed look at this superb domaine. 

Old vines seem to play an important role in their success and you will see the vineyard planting dates proudly listed next to many of their wines, from 1950 for 'Les Charmes' back to 1914 for 1er Cru Clos Rousseau 'Les Fourneaux'.  Caring for these old vines is clearly a labour of love and they describes themselves as working like 'curators in a botanical museum'!  Deep-rooting older vines are very resilient to annual vintage variations, giving consistently brilliant wines each year.   

Aged for 14 months in oak barrels (30% new), the red wines are made in a full, generous style.  The whites offer luscious, creamy textures (they are not afraid of a bit of battonage) and have a structure very similar to those from neighbouring Chassagne-Montrachet

Samuel and Lénaïc's wines are wonderfully enjoyable and affordable and you would be forgiven for thinking prices are per case of six, not per dozenThe fact that they are not more widely reviewed is a sign that they are, as yet, undiscovered.  They sum up everything we find exciting about modern burgundy winemaking.

WHITE 2019 1 case Bachey-Legros - Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot Vieilles Vignes 1er cru 75cl £395 per case of 12 Bachey-Legros
Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot Vieilles Vignes 1er cru
2019 / 1 case / 75cl
£395 per case of 12
Tasting NotesVines planted 1950. Tremendous ripeness and minerality on the nose, with white peach and flint aromas, expanding on the palate to show a glycerin texture and oak, completely harmonious and balanced by the fruit character. Despite the ripeness on the palate, the fruit remains on the peach-pear spectrum (rather than tropical). Exceptional value, showing real1er Cru character at this price level. RKL
WHITE 2019 5 cases Bachey-Legros - Santenay Blanc Clos Les Gravières 1er cru 75cl £280 per case of 12 Bachey-Legros
Santenay Blanc Clos Les Gravières 1er cru
2019 / 5 cases / 75cl
£280 per case of 12
Tasting NotesFrom younger vines in the lower, northern part of Santenay and is mostly a young vine cuvée. The style in similar to Chassagne-Montrachet with lots of richness and texture, presumably influenced by the use of lees stirring and ageing in 30% new wood. The 2019 is stunning on the nose with an immediate impression of minerality and tropical character. This richness is balanced by lees ageing, retaining an overall savoury character, with a backdrop of new oak. Excellent persistence, remarkably consistent with Michelot's Gravieres 1er Cru but the winemaking style is subtly different, emphasising richness. RKL
WHITE 2019 5 cases Bachey-Legros - Santenay Blanc 'Sous La Roche' 75cl £240 per case of 12 Bachey-Legros
Santenay Blanc 'Sous La Roche'
2019 / 5 cases / 75cl
£240 per case of 12
Tasting NotesThe 'Sous La Roche' lieu-dit is a small vineyard, less than half a hectare, quite high up on the slopes above the village of Santenay. The 2019 shows some new oak influence, with toast aromas and a buttery character, balanced by fresh pear and apple aromas. Ripe guava, honeydew melon and other tropical fruits on the palate with citrus lemon pith keeping it fresh, seductive but still all in good balance. RKL
RED 2019 2 cases Bachey-Legros - Santenay Rouge 'Clos des Hâtes' Vieilles Vignes 75cl £195 per case of 12 Bachey-Legros
Santenay Rouge 'Clos des Hâtes' Vieilles Vignes
2019 / 2 cases / 75cl
£195 per case of 12
Tasting NotesFrom vines planted in 1935. Cask sample not tasted. Generally Clos des Hâtes is more structured and rustic in character when compared with Les Charmes. RKL

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