Tasting on the same day as us in London, Jancis Robinson, remarks that the wines are "reminiscent of the old New World barrel-fermented Chardonnays" (of which she is generally a fan). This is not the kind of overblown, butterscotch and tropical fruit character which used to be found, for instance, in Napa Chardonnay. The palette of aromas and flavours is still very much in the range of green orchard fruits, citrus and white stone fruits like peach, but all with wonderful intensity.
With such ripeness, the skill comes in retaining acidity and freshness. 2019 was particularly challenging for its reduction in yields, but as elsewhere, the lack of rain meant that the total acidity in the grapes was not diluted:
"(2019) gave us very good raw materials though not much of them!...the dehydrating effects of the intense summer heat, yields were only around 35 hl/ha...I was shocked to see that the average bunch weight was between 50 and 52 grams, which is obviously far less than the roughly 100 grams per bunch we typically obtain."
The wines have a delicious citrus energy. Jancis finds a "streak of lime fruit" in "Les Perrières", whilst burgundy expert Allen Meadows describes the wines as "racy, yet opulent" with discreet and nuanced oak influence.
|WHITE||2019||2 cases||Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Clos de Prouges" Tete de Cru||75cl||£170 per case of 6||Domaine J.A. Ferret
Pouilly-Fuissé "Clos de Prouges" Tete de Cru
2019 / 2 cases / 75cl
£170 per case of 6
Tasting NotesFrom a 2 hectare clos in the heart of Fuissé on soft limestone and marl soils. Most of the vines were planted in 1956. Fermented and aged for 10 months in 20% new oak, with a further 8 months in tank. Rich and showing lots of very ripe fruit concentration, as well as new oak and hazelnut aromas. A glycerin texture on the palate, more (well-integrated) new oak, lots of fresh character to the fruit and a really delightful saline streak on the finish with excellent length. RKL "Very rich and opulent on the nose. Rather like old-fashioned barrel-fermented Chardonnay with a little spiciness. Great stuff so long as you like the style. A little tension on the end and no hurry to drink. 2020 - 2025. 16.5 points." Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com Nov 2020 "An attractively fresh and bright nose is comprised by a variety of white fleshed fruit, orange peel and a more discreet floral hint. The lush and overtly opulent medium-bodied plus flavors are shaped by citrus-tinged acidity on the clean and dry finale. As is usually the case with this wine, it’s a big and powerful though not especially refined PF. 89-92 points." Allen Meadows, Burghound, Dec 2020
|WHITE||2019||1 case||Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Les Ménétrières" Hors Classe||75cl||£220 per case of 6||Domaine J.A. Ferret
Pouilly-Fuissé "Les Ménétrières" Hors Classe
2019 / 1 case / 75cl
£220 per case of 6
Tasting NotesLes Ménétrières is a vineyard of just 0.8 hectares on the edge of Fuissé, with rich "Dogger Bank" limestone marl deposits running through it, producing the richest of the domaine's wines. Cask sample not yet tasted. RKL "Discreet though still easily perceptible wood frames the vaguely exotic aromas of white peach, passion fruit and acacia. The succulent, rich and impressively scaled full-bodied flavors coat the palate with dry extract on the very citrusy finish. This is powerful yet elegant. 90-92 points." Allen Meadows, Burghound, Dec 2020