Tasting on the same day as us in London, Jancis Robinson, remarks that the wines are "reminiscent of the old New World barrel-fermented Chardonnays" (of which she is generally a fan). This is not the kind of overblown, butterscotch and tropical fruit character which used to be found, for instance, in Napa Chardonnay. The palette of aromas and flavours is still very much in the range of green orchard fruits, citrus and white stone fruits like peach, but all with wonderful intensity.
With such ripeness, the skill comes in retaining acidity and freshness. 2019 was particularly challenging for its reduction in yields, but as elsewhere, the lack of rain meant that the total acidity in the grapes was not diluted:
"(2019) gave us very good raw materials though not much of them!...the dehydrating effects of the intense summer heat, yields were only around 35 hl/ha...I was shocked to see that the average bunch weight was between 50 and 52 grams, which is obviously far less than the roughly 100 grams per bunch we typically obtain."
The wines have a delicious citrus energy. Jancis finds a "streak of lime fruit" in "Les Perrières", whilst burgundy expert Allen Meadows describes the wines as "racy, yet opulent" with discreet and nuanced oak influence.
|WHITE||2019||20 cases||Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Clos de Prouges" Tete de Cru||75cl||£195 per case of 6||Domaine J.A. Ferret
Pouilly-Fuissé "Clos de Prouges" Tete de Cru
2019 / 20 cases / 75cl
£195 per case of 6