Our Burgundy 2020 en primeur offers for the New Year begin with the superb value white and red burgundies from brothers Laurent and Pascal Borgeot. Every year we tell you what great value their wines are, but recent warm vintages have particularly favoured this domaine. With the 2021 vintage so drastically reduced, we recommend filling your cellar with their 2020 vintage while stock is available.
Laurent and Pascal's wines are firm favourites with many of our customers, but if they are new to you, do read the profile below. Laurent is usually a whirlwind of energy and it can be impossible to get him to stand still for more than a moment, so we were delighted this year to get a photo of him with a smile on his face, as he presented his 2020s.
A great success of last year's en primeurs was the Bourgogne Blanc 'Clos de la Carbonade', from a walled vineyard in Bouzeron, a monopole, owned exclusively by the domaine. Finding really exceptional Bourgognes Blancs and Rouges is one of the most rewarding aspects of our cask tasting visits. The best domaines produce mostly higher-level (village and premier cru) wines and there is usually precious little Bourgogne to be had. Previous vintages of Clos Carbonade have been even better in bottle than from cask, so if the 2020 barrel sample is anything to go by, this will be superb when bottled, with tonnes of energy and a pithy texture balancing the beautifully ripe orchard and stone fruit character.
The Borgeot's humble Bourgogne Rouge, from 3 parcels of vines in Santenay, is also star in its own right. We have been drinking the 2019 vintage at home and were delighted at how well it stood up to some left-over rib of beef this Christmas, revealing hidden depths. The 2020 cask sample was tremendously fresh and almost classical in style, but still has excellent concentration and ripeness to the fruit.
The Santenay Vieilles Vignes is quite different in style to the red Santenays from Bachey Legros; more savoury and with aromas of herbs and wood on the nose ('like breaking a twig' commented one taster). At just £185 per dozen in bond, or £21.18 per bottle after all taxes, this is a great riposte to anyone who thinks that great burgundy needs to be ruinously expensive.
While the Borgeots excel in making great value wines, their top wines from Chassagne-Montrachet are very fine and stand up to tasting alongside the best from that village. The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes had splendid ripeness and intensity, whilst the 1er Cru Clos St Jean managed to balance elegant aromas of white flowers with impressive 'matière'...a weighty texture in the glass.
We will probably repeat this numerous times over the course of our 2020 offers, but white burgundies of this quality are likely to become more expensive and harder to find over the next few years, so we recommend adding them to your cellar now.
Offered en primeur, landing autumn 2022.
|WHITE||2020||3 cases||Borgeot - Bourgogne Blanc Clos de la Carbonade||75cl||£140 per case of 12||Borgeot
Bourgogne Blanc Clos de la Carbonade
2020 / 3 cases / 75cl
£140 per case of 12
Tasting NotesFrom a walled vineyard in Bouzeron, owned entirely by the Borgeots, hence this is a monopole for the domaine. Clean, green orchard fruits on the nose, pear and green apple, with a fresh citrus note. Notably ripe fruit on the palate, with some richness and a pithy texture, but still retaining the orchard fruit character. Based on how cask samples of previous vintages have fleshed-out in bottle, this will be one of the best Clos Carbonades we have tried. RKL
|WHITE||2020||2 cases||Borgeot - Chassagne Montrachet Clos St Jean 1er cru||75cl||£260 per case of 6||Borgeot
Chassagne Montrachet Clos St Jean 1er cru
2020 / 2 cases / 75cl
£260 per case of 6
Tasting NotesThe Clos St Jean premier cru is known best-known for pinot noir, but the Borgeots are unusual in having an excellent holdings of 60-year old chardonnay vines here. The Clos has Benedictine origins dating back a thousand years and faces east, protecting it from some of the hottest temperatures in summer. The 2020 has notable aromas of white flowers and some hazelnut, with very pure white stone fruit and orchard fruits. After this elegant impression, the intensity on the palate is astounding. The Vieilles Vignes is superb every year, but this is the most compelling Clos St Jean we have tasted. RKL
|WHITE||2020||4 cases||Borgeot - Chassagne Montrachet Vieilles Vignes||75cl||£240 per case of 6||Borgeot
Chassagne Montrachet Vieilles Vignes
2020 / 4 cases / 75cl
£240 per case of 6
Tasting NotesThe Borgeots have excellent holdings in Chassagne, with Chardonnay vines up to 60 years old, producing low yields of very concentrated fruit. The elevage is in up to 25% new oak, which is very much in the background, with the pithy texture and 'ciselé' (chiselled) fruit giving this wine its fresh but structured character. Great intensity in 2020, with green orchard and citrus fruits predominating, despite the ripeness of the year. A very classical expression of village-level Chassagne. RKL