Burgundy 2021 En Primeur: Domaine Hudelot-Baillet
We first met Dominique Le Guen in 2018, after being tipped off that he was a rising star of Chambolle-Musigny. Initially, we found him a bit intimidating; intense, and bursting with energy. He talks ten to the dozen in his heavily-accented Breton-French, always on two subjects: rugby and winemaking. As time goes by, we have realized he is in fact very affable!
This is a good thing, as in Burgundy, more than any other wine region, the personality of the winemaker tends to shine through in the wines. In Dominique's case, this expresses itself in equally intense, concentrated but highly enjoyable and likeable Bourgognes, Hâutes Côtes-de-Nuits and some stupendously good Chambolle-Musignys.
This year, we also met Dominique's son, Tanguy, who works in the vineyards with him...so there was a great deal of talk about the importance of winter pruning dates to avoid frost damage. We didn't follow all of it...possibly something about two prunings, in January and March, 2-3 weeks later than usual, which delayed the opening of the buds. Whatever they did, it seems to have worked! The harvest was less badly hit by frost than elsewhere, though not untouched, with an average yield of 29hl/ha compared to 39hl/ha in 2019. Availability is nevertheless very limited, as we have had pre-orders from buyers of previous vintages.
Dominique's 2021s were a great pleasure to taste. Less extracted than the 2018, '19 and '20 vintages, this allowed the terroir to show through, something we really enjoyed. The Hâutes Côtes-de-Nuits was a particular favourite, as were the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Les Charmes' and 'Les Cras'. In fact, it felt like we were really getting to taste these superb terroirs for the first time, their character was so much more apparent in this vintage.
Our notes are peppered with words like minerality, crushed rock, balanced, elegant, and classical. In case you think this means the wines lack concentration, they do not! We can't imagine Dominique ever bottling a wine that does not have plenty of depth and body. The 2021s still have the dark core of Côte de Nuits fruit we have come to expect from this domaine, but you will also find all kinds of mineral, soil-influenced complexity and nuance which we think you will love.
All of the wines are available in very limited quantities, with the 1er Cru 'Les Borniques' on allocation.
Offered En Primeur, wines due to land in the UK in autumn 2023.
Producer Profile
Domaine Hudelot-Baillet, Chambolle-Musigny
This small 8-hectare domaine is based in the centre of Chambolle-Musigny and has excellent holdings in the premiers crus of 'Les Charmes' and 'Les Borniques', as well as a tiny parcel in the Bonnes Mares Grand Cru. Hâutes Côtes de Nuits is also a strength, with the vines lying on the hills above Chambolle itself. This reputation of the domaine is largely due to the efforts of Dominique Le Guen, who began working here in 1998, after a career in the French airforce, when his father-in-law was reaching retirement. At that stage, Dominique, a Breton by birth, had no winemaking experience. His first solus vintage was in 2002. The domaine was almost moribund when he took it on, but his meticulous, hardworking approach has made it "one to watch".
Dominique's winemaking approach includes destemming and cool maceration for the red wines, with punching down, remontage and delestage, to extract the supple tannins from the skins rather than the pips. The wines are aged in between a third and a half new oak.
| RED | 2021 | 1 case | Hudelot Baillet - Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits | 75cl | £120 per case of 6 | Hudelot Baillet Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2021 / 1 case / 75cl £120 per case of 6 |
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| RED | 2021 | 6 cases | Hudelot Baillet - Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes 1er cru | 75cl | £370 per case of 6 | Hudelot Baillet Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes 1er cru 2021 / 6 cases / 75cl £370 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes ler Cru has an expressive bouquet with black cherries, raspberry confit and light sous-bois aromas, becoming more opulent with aeration. The palate is sweet on the entry, rounded in texture with wild strawberry and raspberry, white pepper and thyme, harmonious on the finish, though not as complex as the Les Cras. 90-92 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2021 | 1 case | Hudelot Baillet - Chambolle Musigny Les Cras 1er cru | 75cl | £420 per case of 6 | Hudelot Baillet Chambolle Musigny Les Cras 1er cru 2021 / 1 case / 75cl £420 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras ler Cru has a lively black cherry, cassis and wild strawberry scented bouquet, more floral than the Les Charmes. The palate is generous on the entry with supple tannins, lightly spiced, slightly high-toned on the finish with a long black pepper and thyme tinged aftertaste. Excellent, but it will need some bottle age. 91-93 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2021 | 4 cases | Hudelot Baillet - Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes | 75cl | £265 per case of 6 | Hudelot Baillet Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2021 / 4 cases / 75cl £265 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes, tasted from a one-year-old barrel (there will 20% new in the final blend) has a tightly knit bouquet with blackberry and raspberry fruit, quite elegant after three or four minutes of aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a lovely, confit-like entry, very well balanced with a silky texture, hints of raspberry jam and white pepper on the finish. Beautifully defined from start to finish. Excellent. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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