Released for sale this morning on the Place de Bordeaux, the wines of Bibi Graetz may be unfamiliar, but they are rapidly becoming the most prestigious in Tuscany, particularly Graetz’s top Sangiovese, 'Colore'. Jane Anson scores the 2021 Colore 100 points, released at £420 per three bottles in bond.
Graetz grew up in a family of artists and his distinctive wine label designs reflect this, in an explosion of colour that doesn’t make it any easier for newcomers to get to know the range!. He founded his winery in 2000, on the hill of Fiesole, overlooking Florence. Graetz has built his reputation on the extremely old Sangiovese vines planted here, up to 125 years old in the case of the Colore vineyard, at 250-600m altitude.
Graetz's 2021 'Testamatta' receives scores almost as impressive as 'Colore', with several key critics rating it 98 points and Suckling scoring it 99 points. At £318 per six bottles, this is an affordable way to get to know one of Italy's most exciting winemakers.
Availability is extremely limited, so please let us know straight away if you would like to order.
Offered en primeur, available spring 2024.
|RED||2021||Bibi Graetz - Colore||75cl||£420 per case of 3||Bibi Graetz
2021 / / 75cl
£420 per case of 3
Tasting Notes"The Bibi Graetz 2021 Colore is Sangiovese from old vines, but otherwise, winemaking and the oak regime is identical to the other top red, Testamatta. In this case, fruit comes from the Lamole area with vineyards at a high 600 meters above sea level. Some are south-facing but high up on the mountain. As Bibi explains: “Colore delivers power and freshness, whereas Testamatta delivers transparency and freshness.” The Colore shows the pure energy and liveliness of Sangiovese with violet, wild cherry and orange zest. The wine delivers an elegantly earthy side with a very delineated mouthfeel driven by very fine, silly tannins. This is a beautiful wine with delicately sweet cherry on the finish. Bibi has been making little changes to this wine over the years (other than giving it a new winery home in Fiesole) to capture an ideal or benchmark for Sangiovese. His 2021 is his best wine yet. Production is 35,000 bottles, which is slightly lower compared to the last vintage. 98+ points." Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate------"The 2021 Colore, 100% Sangiovese, is medium garnet-purple in color. After a little swirling, a glorious perfume of raspberry coulis, Morello cherries, and rose oil emerges from the glass, followed by hints of cinnamon toast, Sichuan pepper, and underbrush. The medium-bodied palate is coated with vibrant red berry and floral layers, framed by exquisitely ripe, fine-grained tannins and bold freshness, finishing epically long and fragrant. This is absolutely stunning! 99 points." Lisa Perrotti-Brown, The Wine Independent------"Another excellent wine from Bibi Graetz made from selected old-vine Sangiovese. Herbal and spiced on the nose, fragrant but with savoury aspects rather than overtly floral or fruity. Intense and direct, this hits you square on, with energy and forward motion. So sleek and well defined, smooth yet lively and energetic with tannins that are so beautifully executed. Almost plush and chewy giving weight and texture to the palate while actually being quite light and aerial overall. Complex and invigorating, fresh and wild at the same time - I love the character, it's pure but with a sense of authenticity that encapsulates the terroir and winemaking philosophy so wonderfully. Ends with a minty, liquorice, spiced blackcurrant and cool cherry element that is extremely moreish! 99 points." Georgina Hindle, Decanter------"Intense aromas of purple fruits such as raspberry, spice, lead pencil and granite. Perfumed flowers as well. Full-bodied, tight with poised tannins that show transparency and focus. Crunchy and very long. Better after 2028 when it opens and integrates beautifully. 99 points." James Suckling------"Just love this wine, the lyricism and the generosity of it, and its always vivid depiction of fruits and stones. So juicy, so drawn out, works with the vintage, leans into its low yields, with greengages, raspberry, plum, gentle spices, lemongrass, minerality studded with mandarin peel and sage. Translucent and yet full of flavour, once again it begs you to draw up a chair, gather friends, and enjoy. What a brilliant wine and a brilliant winemaker in Bibi Graetz. From a 58ha estate, Colore comes from the oldest vineyards of Sangiovese that range up to 135 years old. 100 points." Jane Anson